Granite Arrma Granite input gear stripped.

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Jeffaa112

Member
Messages
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Location
Netherlands
Arrma RC's
  1. 4x4-Mega
  2. Granite Mega
Hello Forum members!

I'm a new Arrma driver. Got a Granite Mega 4x4 brushed as a present. Upgraded to a Hobbywing Max10 G2 80A esc with a Hobbywing 3652 3300kv sensored motor. 3S BLX slipperclutch assembly and Bashing PRO 6800Mah 120c 3S. Stripped my rear input gear (see greasy picture below lol🤣). So now my question is; whats the best replacement for this composite gear ?

Thankyou for the help !!

IMG_1276.jpeg


IMG_1284.jpeg
 
If the slipper is too tight and you have a heavy trigger finger the force will travel to the diffs. Heavy diff oil will make matters worse in this regard. This can also cause the driveshafts to pop out frequently. Diffs also need to be shimmed to get the full engagement of the gears. 4s metal diffs will certainly handle the force better than the composite. I have run composite for a long time reliably. Just have to have the right balance in the setup. The slipper can be a bit of trial and error. Holding the slipper in place and rolling forward on carpet seems to set the slipper pretty well. Good luck!
 
The short wheel base on the Granite and a heavy trigger finger is bad for that rear out put drive gear. The more the truck bounces on the wheelie bar under heavey throttle the output gear wears out faster.
 
Jenny's rc.com has cheap replacement parts or go aluminum diff case and metal gears. https://hot-racing.com/?c=1428_Arrma_1:10_4x4_OutCast_4S_BLX_
Bottom of the page new output gear and diff gear for stock plastic diff case or aluminum diff case and gears. THE BEST CHOICE IMO.
https://jennysrc.com/collections/arrma-granite-3s-blx-ar102666
Wow! thanks
Jenny'src indeed got some cheap replacements to keep you going. Hot-racing looks like a more durable replacement for the problem.
If the slipper is too tight and you have a heavy trigger finger the force will travel to the diffs. Heavy diff oil will make matters worse in this regard. This can also cause the driveshafts to pop out frequently. Diffs also need to be shimmed to get the full engagement of the gears. 4s metal diffs will certainly handle the force better than the composite. I have run composite for a long time reliably. Just have to have the right balance in the setup. The slipper can be a bit of trial and error. Holding the slipper in place and rolling forward on carpet seems to set the slipper pretty well. Good luck!
Probably could be a too tight slipper and a love for wheelies (lololol). ill give it a try when i fixed the problem. i believe the 3S diffs of the granite can't be shimmed if im right, correct me if im wrong.
Thanks for the advice!
 
Wow! thanks
Jenny'src indeed got some cheap replacements to keep you going. Hot-racing looks like a more durable replacement for the problem.

Probably could be a too tight slipper and a love for wheelies (lololol). ill give it a try when i fixed the problem. i believe the 3S diffs of the granite can't be shimmed if im right, correct me if im wrong.
Thanks for the advice!
The stock shouldn't need shimming. To save some money people will just do rear diff in metal and leave the front plastick,front doesn't go bad so often just the rear. When adjusting the clutch only in 1/16 turns. From Stock the clutch usually to tight!!

The big problem is the plastic yoke. It flexes alot while exceliraring causing the gears to go out of alignment. Just the Hot Racing red aluminum yoke will stop that flexing. And plastic diff gears will last longer. And you most likely have to shim.

And WELCOME TO THE FORUM! Had to have a wake and bake session this morning, chronic pain is in a harassing kind of mood this morning 😮‍💨🙄
 
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The stock shouldn't need shimming. To save some money people will just do rear diff in metal and leave the front plastick,front doesn't go bad so often just the rear. When adjusting the clutch only in 1/16 turns. From Stock the clutch usually to tight!!

The big problem is the plastic yoke. It flexes alot while exceliraring causing the gears to go out of alignment. Just the Hot Racing red aluminum yoke will stop that flexing. And plastic diff gears will last longer. And you most likely have to shim.

And WELCOME TO THE FORUM! Had to have a wake and bake session this morning, chronic pain is in a harassing kind of mood this morning 😮‍💨🙄
Im considering the full metal differential boost box from arrma. is it worth buying for the money ? its about €110 or just buy some metal yoke's and a new input gear so i can keep rolling on a budget for now and see how long it lasts ?

thanks 😁 hoped the wake&bake sesh did what it needs to! Bashing with the granite also helps me alot in situations like that😇
 
Im considering the full metal differential boost box from arrma. is it worth buying for the money ? its about €110 or just buy some metal yoke's and a new input gear so i can keep rolling on a budget for now and see how long it lasts ?

thanks 😁 hoped the wake&bake sesh did what it needs to! Bashing with the granite also helps me alot in situations like that😇
Spend the extra money on Hot Racing spiral cut diff and outdrive gears and aluminum diff case. The boost kit is junk compared to HR. Just my opinion. Others would agree I think.

Spend the extra money on Hot Racing spiral cut diff and outdrive gears and aluminum diff case. The boost kit is junk compared to HR. Just my opinion. Others would agree I think.
Hot racing also has a diff gear and outdrive that work with the plastic diff case with out the plastic gear on it.

If your on a budget definitely go HR aluminum yoke and stock plastic gears. The HR yoke will make a big difference in long-term use.
 
Spend the extra money on Hot Racing spiral cut diff and outdrive gears and aluminum diff case. The boost kit is junk compared to HR. Just my opinion. Others would agree I think.


Hot racing also has a diff gear and outdrive that work with the plastic diff case with out the plastic gear on it.
I guess i need this ;

ATF9337 & ATF11Y02​

the ATF11PG and ATF11A01 are optional to rebuild the diff. i could re use the casing and the inside gears for now?​


thanks😁 Also HR parts are a bit harder to find in Europe
 
I guess i need this ;

ATF9337 & ATF11Y02​

the ATF11PG and ATF11A01 are optional to rebuild the diff. i could re use the casing and the inside gears for now?​


thanks😁 Also HR parts are a bit harder to find in Europe
Not a problem! Any time.
 
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