29mm exb diffs worth it?

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Enjoy your overpriced plastic then, lots of information available to build proper differentials too 👍🏼
I don’t run plastic in my drivetrains. Yes, I’m aware as youtube is flooded with how-to’s.
 
I've been watching these pins wear and thinking they gotta be replaceable? They must be tapered right? You happen to know the size or have a p/n?
OE Center driveshaft cross pins are 3.0 mm x 12.76 mm to be exact.
I don't believe they would be tapered.
 
OE Center driveshaft cross pins are 3.0 mm x 12.76 mm to be exact.
I don't believe they would be tapered.
Thanks! I just bought replacement center dogbones for my Mojo, Kraton needs them too.. I just hate to buy pins press them in only to watch them fall back out. My brother's Sludge had pins falling out of every dogbone and cvd in the first 2 weeks of ownership. Ironically, his O8S exb roller lost a pin from a rear dogbone on about the 4th battery pack..just fell out..gone!🤔🤷‍♂️
 
Enjoy your overpriced plastic then, lots of information available to build proper differentials too 👍🏼

Lol doesn't matter how properly the diffs are shimmed. If the parts are made from cheap materials they won't last anyway.

Can you build a house from popsicle sticks? Sure can but not sure how long it will last.
 
Lol doesn't matter how properly the diffs are shims if the parts are made from cheap materials they won't last anyway.
My concerns as well☝️. I know some say the Arrma diffs suck, but 2 years of use and neglect is certainly good enough for me. I just don't know if the exb diffs are really worth rebuilding. Like I said, just the ring and pinion is $40.. I'd love to see Arrma start using the 29mm diffs in all 6s models..so we can scoop complete assemblies from kit breakers for $40. Case, outdrives, bearings..what a beautiful world it would be!!😁🍻
FWIW, my only exposure to RCAWD parts so far were some aluminum 4wd TRX parts I got for free from a coworker a few years back. He picked them up from an amazon returns store . Fill a bag for $20 or something.. well, the RCAWD parts needed quite a bit of messaging just to fit, then wore like butter. I ended up tossing them and buying the actual TRX upgrades which have been great..expensive, but work great.
 
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Not going to argue with anyone that doesn’t actually have experience using the product. If you think composite cups are better than even the cheapest alloy then I can’t force a dead horse to drink if I’ve already led it to water. All manufacturers have had learning curves with materials, there’s a reason they’re still in business and all over the shopping network. Local aftermarket touting premium materials continue to fall or sell to the next attempt.

Carbon steel isn’t expensive, I buy $5 aliX outdrive cups and run them on 8S and they wear through m2c/mugen pins before even starting to egg out.
 
Anybody know what size the internal pins are? I've seen recommendations about getting drill blanks and making your own, but does Mugen or someone else make them from better steel already sized to fit inside Arrma diffs?

I think you're right about them becoming standard on 6s going forward. As to the outdrives, all original still here. Just now after 2 years am replacing center driveshafts due to the pins wearing out.. I put a Rocket 4092 in the Mojo, which eventually became a Kraton XL. Think the 4092 is going to be retired, too much motor IMO. I'll go back to a 4074 and enjoy the longevity of drivetrain parts since that's what belongs in it. We all do it differently right?🍻
Lol, same here. Ran a 4092 in my Talion XL for a while. Was time to swap bearings when I saw Hobbystar had the 4082 for $60. I decided to try it and figured if I wasn't crazy about it I could toss it in the parts bin as a backup or some future build. Have run the 4082 5-6 times now and seems to me that most of the extra power from the 4092 just increased wheel spin beyond what traction can make useful at least for where and how I bash. I'm happy with the 4082, also saves around 60g of weight which.
 
Not going to argue with anyone that doesn’t actually have experience using the product. If you think composite cups are better than even the cheapest alloy then I can’t force a dead horse to drink if I’ve already led it to water. All manufacturers have had learning curves with materials, there’s a reason they’re still in business and all over the shopping network. Local aftermarket touting premium materials continue to fall or sell to the next attempt.

Carbon steel isn’t expensive, I buy $5 aliX outdrive cups and run them on 8S and they wear through m2c/mugen pins before even starting to egg out.
We are creatures of habit, LOL. I am not disagreeing with you. Just weary based on past experiences. The plastic cups did hold for me for quite awhile. Having broken a couple now, I can't help but think there is something else a miss, housing perhaps, not sure. I'm not writing off the RCAWD, but rather if I can buy the whole stock getup from JRC or elsewhere for $40. Hard to look any further if that makes sense.
 
Anybody know what size the internal pins are? I've seen recommendations about getting drill blanks and making your own, but does Mugen or someone else make them from better steel already sized to fit inside Arrma diffs?


Lol, same here. Ran a 4092 in my Talion XL for a while. Was time to swap bearings when I saw Hobbystar had the 4082 for $60. I decided to try it and figured if I wasn't crazy about it I could toss it in the parts bin as a backup or some future build. Have run the 4082 5-6 times now and seems to me that most of the extra power from the 4092 just increased wheel spin beyond what traction can make useful at least for where and how I bash. I'm happy with the 4082, also saves around 60g of weight which.
Yeah, it comes down to usage as to what's "too much" power. Soccer fields, ripping up and down the block, the 4092 is a beast for sure. But that's not where I spend my time so, it's got more power than I can use..actually the 4074 fills the bill I'm happy to say, and my drivetrain thanks me.
Carbon steel isn’t expensive, I buy $5 aliX outdrive cups and run them on 8S and they wear through m2c/mugen pins before even starting to egg out.
I can definitely agree. I picked a set of outdrives for my Xmaxx from amazon, can't even pronounce the name because it doesn't translate to english,LOL. They were less than half the price of the stock TRX crap, and after about 10 packs, I still can't see any wear.. sold!!👍👊😎🍻
 
Not going to argue with anyone that doesn’t actually have experience using the product. If you think composite cups are better than even the cheapest alloy then I can’t force a dead horse to drink if I’ve already led it to water. All manufacturers have had learning curves with materials, there’s a reason they’re still in business and all over the shopping network. Local aftermarket touting premium materials continue to fall or sell to the next attempt.

Carbon steel isn’t expensive, I buy $5 aliX outdrive cups and run them on 8S and they wear through m2c/mugen pins before even starting to egg out.

I've had some of their products before and it was all bling parts. Nothing fit right, some parts didn't even fit at all and they added so much slop to the suspension that the car was undrivable. So you can understand why I am a little hesitant on trying their parts again. I've had 3 of their exb diffs in my Aliexpress shopping cart for a few months now I mean it is all 3 diffs for like $65 how could you not be tempted by that. The stock Arrma parts from Jennys rc comes to nearly $100 and they aren't even EXB spec.

We are creatures of habit, LOL. I am not disagreeing with you. Just weary based on past experiences. The plastic cups did hold for me for quite awhile. Having broken a couple now, I can't help but think there is something else a miss, housing perhaps, not sure. I'm not writing off the RCAWD, but rather if I can buy the whole stock getup from JRC or elsewhere for $40. Hard to look any further if that makes sense.

No I'm willing to bet they will be around $60 each again from Jenny's like they were before.
 
No I'm willing to bet they will be around $60 each again from Jenny's like they were before.
Well, if the exb diff becomes the standard for 6s trucks, there will be an abundance of them. Maybe the pricing would be less. Even still, at $60 complete, cheaper than a full rebuild.
 
On amazon.ca they are 35$ a pair

I lied you save $3.10 through jennys.

Horizon
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Jennys

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I don't have any problem with the stock diffs once you change the pins for cobolt drill bits
 
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