Felony 8s Felony rebuild

[TN-RC]

it is 77 here today tried to run the 1/7 Aarrma today, I was all over I think my steering still has to much slop in it and I think I need to change it out (this is the problem with buying a used car for probably 1/2 the price I could be over 100)
I now have a 917 body being panted and I am running the FlySky NB4 6s 0-100% .5s for the steering and the steering is limited to 45%.
I just tightened up the steering parts a couple of runs ago. Do I trash the car or keep spending money that is what is going through my mind, I need help.

Edit: the video clip is me moving the tire back and forth with the car/servo on.

 

[vwturbowolf]

it is 77 here today tried to run the 1/7 Aarrma today, I was all over I think my steering still has to much slop in it and I think I need to change it out (this is the problem with buying a used car for probably 1/2 the price I could be over 100)
I now have a 917 body being panted and I am running the FlySky NB4 6s 0-100% .5s for the steering and the steering is limited to 45%.
I just tightened up the steering parts a couple of runs ago. Do I trash the car or keep spending money that is what is going through my mind, I need help.

Edit: the video clip is me moving the tire back and forth with the car/servo on.

You need to isolate where the movement is coming from,
Some looks like the hubs, needs shims,
Rest looks like it’s from the steering linkage, there is worn to be done for sure

 

[TN-RC]

You need to isolate where the movement is coming from,
Some looks like the hubs, needs shims,
Rest looks like it’s from the steering linkage, there is worn to be done for sure

How do I shim the hubs?

 

[vwturbowolf]

How do I shim the hubs?

Using diff shims, you have to remove the hex and outer bearing then place a shim inside the hub where the outer bearing presses in. Usually need 1, but basically reassemble, check for wobble and make sure it spins with no resistance

 

[TN-RC]

Using diff shims, you have to remove the hex and outer bearing then place a shim inside the hub where the outer bearing presses in. Usually need 1, but basically reassemble, check for wobble and make sure it spins with no resistance

I think you are right, the right side is 50%+ sloppier than the left.

 

[TN-RC]

Also how do I do the super glue trick? I think you said that you put the glue on and move the part around, so it gets in the gap but not sticking the parts together.

 

[TN-RC]

it is 77 here today tried to run the 1/7 Aarrma today, I was all over I think my steering still has to much slop in it and I think I need to change it out (this is the problem with buying a used car for probably 1/2 the price I could be over 100)
I now have a 917 body being panted and I am running the FlySky NB4 6s 0-100% .5s for the steering and the steering is limited to 45%.
I just tightened up the steering parts a couple of runs ago. Do I trash the car or keep spending money that is what is going through my mind, I need help.

Edit: the video clip is me moving the tire back and forth with the car/servo on.

I bumped the steering from .5s to 1s to help me not over steer. BTW I got 63mph on 3s yesterday.
@vwturbowolf
#125 "I think you are right, the right side is 50%+ sloppier than the left."
#126 "Also how do I do the super glue trick? I think you said that you put the glue on and move the part around, so it gets in the gap but not sticking the parts together." (I think most of it is in the tie rods (turnbuckles))

 

[vwturbowolf]

I bumped the steering from .5s to 1s to help me not over steer. BTW I got 63mph on 3s yesterday.
@vwturbowolf
#125 "I think you are right, the right side is 50%+ sloppier than the left."
#126 "Also how do I do the super glue trick? I think you said that you put the glue on and move the part around, so it gets in the gap but not sticking the parts together." (I think most of it is in the tie rods (turnbuckles))

You can only do one joint at a time, but once it’s almost dry, you break it loose again, but the glue stays inside any of the voids that were there

 

[TN-RC]

I used super glue and all the slop except what is in the hubs in gone! My problem is the bell-crank is really tight and I tried to loosen it, but I guess I don't know how. I think the servo is no good in the video you can see the bell-crank and the servo, the steering was hitting 20% in the video, and you can see how bad it is and how it does not go back to center.
@LibertyMKiii you are probably the one who knows best so I am asking for speed running is towed in or tow out the best? Right now, my car is towed out.

 

[Diem Turner]

I used super glue and all the slop except what is in the hubs in gone! My problem is the bell-crank is really tight and I tried to loosen it, but I guess I don't know how. I think the servo is no good in the video you can see the bell-crank and the servo, the steering was hitting 20% in the video, and you can see how bad it is and how it does not go back to center.
@LibertyMKiii you are probably the one who knows best so I am asking for speed running is towed in or tow out the best? Right now, my car is towed out.

Toe out increases steering sensitivity, which isn't really what you want in a speed runner. A tiny bit of toe in (-0.5°) should give you a little bit more straight line stability as it drives the car towards its own centerline. I run anywhere between 0° to -0.5° toe in myself.

 

[TN-RC]

Toe out increases steering sensitivity, which isn't really what you want in a speed runner. A tiny bit of toe in (-0.5°) should give you a little bit more straight line stability as it drives the car towards its own centerline. I run anywhere between 0° to -0.5° toe in myself.

Thank you, Diem Turner, I made the tie rod gap from 22mm to 23mm and that gave me just a hair of tow in instead of a bit of tow out.

 

[TN-RC]

My problem is the bell-crank is really tight and I tried to loosen it, but I guess I don't know how.
I think the servo is no good, in the video you can see the bell-crank and the servo, the steering was hitting 20% in the video, and you can see how bad it is and how the steering does not go back to center.

@vwturbowolf or @K-BASH Do you think you could help me with my steering?

 

[Diem Turner]

Which part of the steering assembly is tight? I assume you've broken it down completely, cleaned all the bushings/bearings, and made sure there's no binding anywhere.

 

[TN-RC]

Which part of the steering assembly is tight? I assume you've broken it down completely, cleaned all the bushings/bearings, and made sure there's no binding anywhere.

I have not taken it apart. maybe I should do that.
It is the post or something between steering link that comes off the servo horn and the steering rack.

 

[Diem Turner]

I have not taken it apart. maybe I should do that.
It is the post or something between steering link that comes off the servo horn and the steering rack.

Yeah. Break it all down and clean everything. Maybe pop the bell crank posts into a drill and hit them with a scotchbrite pad or micromesh. Test each component individually when putting it back together and you should either get a smooth operating steering or a clearer picture of what part it is that's binding.

 

[K-BASH]

@vwturbowolf or @K-BASH Do you think you could help me with my steering?

Everything should move back an forth smoothly.an go back to center..I'd start with finding the binding by removing horn an an checking each joint till ya find the binding

 

[TN-RC]

Everything should move back an forth smoothly.an go back to center..I'd start with finding the binding by removing horn an an checking each joint till ya find the binding

I think I am going to also change the servo right now it has the Arrma 15kg and I got a Spektrum 18kg sitting that is going into my Vendetta. the servo just might want to be done with its life in a car.

 

[K-BASH]

I think I am going to also change the servo right now it has the Arrma 15kg and I got a Spektrum 18kg sitting that is going into my Vendetta. the servo just might want to be done with its life in a car.

I prefer running high-voltage on speedrun cars,,,imo hi-voltage say 7v-8.5v to rx helps with range......I love the HV hobbystar servos from rcjuice....cheap,strong,an work great..usely pay 30-45$for mine

 

[joshludden]

I prefer running high-voltage on speedrun cars,,,imo hi-voltage say 7v-8.5v to rx helps with range......I love the HV hobbystar servos from rcjuice....cheap,strong,an work great..usely pay 30-45$for mine

Is this the one?

 

[TN-RC]

Thank you @Diem Turner and @K-BASH, I fixed it!
The bell-crank was dirty but what ended up being the problem was that the Steering Step Screw's (that is what they are called) where to tight, working great but I do not know if I will be able to get a run in the rain about here.