Infraction bash gearing and fluid

[GoFastBreakFaster]

So I've gotten a TON of help from you guys in my intro thread with my Kraton 6s EXB. I'm grateful for your advice and will be doing build threads on both it and the Infraction once I get my orders in.

The Infraction has been kind of set to the side in conversation so I wanted to start this thread for it so I can keep the info separate. It is a V2 6s that had been converted to 8s (and undoubtedly abused).

I'm waiting on suspension parts to repair and I ordered a MMX with the 1717-1650. I want to set it up for pretty hard street bashing but be able to simply change the pinion (if possible) for speed runs, obviously all the while keeping it from frying. I need to mention I suspect PO replaced the spur but I have the OG and it looks fine. I also want to mention I'm not afraid to order a new spur at the recommendation from you fine gentlemen. What fluids should I use?

If you bought one of these used and had suspicion of abuse what things would you look at closely? Chassis upgrades? Suspension upgrades? Different body available? If a tree falls and nobody is around to hear it, does it still make a noise?What exactly is that little umbrella in the drink supposed to do?

 

[The Bean]

If you'll posted it in the 6s thread, you'd get an answer quicker.
I sadly don't have any advice, but I hope you'll get an answer soon!

 

[GoFastBreakFaster]

If you'll posted it in the 6s thread, you'd get an answer quicker.
I sadly don't have any advice, but I hope you'll get an answer soon!

I'm just glad I was able to find the "post new thread" tab but it is an 8s setup.

How do I get the pretty little ribbon I see on some of the other threads? Like it will show "Infraction" or "Kraton" or "Limitless" in a highlighted block. I looked for model specific sections but didn't see any?

Like this

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Because you have the V2 infraction with the 2.8 ratio diffs...

Assuming you will run it on 8s based on your description. I recommend the following:

Bashing - 50t spur / center diff from the other 6s models and a 14t pinion (speeds around 60 mph)
Speed runs - Swap in your 46t spur/center diff and use a 22t pinion. (should net speeds around 100 mph)
Faster speed runs - center spool setup with more aggressive gearing, but do 100mph a few times with the above setup to confirm you can handle or even want higher speeds.

Diff fluids tend to be a personal preference, but 500k to 1 mill is a good place to start. Usually thicker fluid in the front.

For bodies check out Delta Plastiks 1/7 scale options:
https://deltaplastikusa.com/collections/1-7-scale-bodies

For speed run speeds make sure the rear spring pre-load collar is full tight and make sure the front rides significantly lower than the rear. (we call this Rake in the suspension setup) The "droop screws" in the lower a-arms is one way to easily lower the 6s models.

 

[The Bean]

I'm just glad I was able to find the "post new thread" tab but it is an 8s setup.

How do I get the pretty little ribbon I see on some of the other threads? Like it will show "Infraction" or "Kraton" or "Limitless" in a highlighted block. I looked for model specific sections but didn't see any?
View attachment 180141

Like this

When you are making a thread, this option is somewhere. You aren't able to post without selecting it

It's the prefix thing

 

[GoFastBreakFaster]

Because you have the V2 infraction with the 2.8 ratio diffs...

Assuming you will run it on 8s based on your description. I recommend the following:

Bashing - 50t spur / center diff from the other 6s models and a 14t pinion (speeds around 60 mph)
Speed runs - Swap in your 46t spur/center diff and use a 22t pinion. (should net speeds around 100 mph)
Faster speed runs - center spool setup with more aggressive gearing, but do 100mph a few times with the above setup to confirm you can handle or even want higher speeds.

Diff fluids tend to be a personal preference, but 500k to 1 mill is a good place to start. Usually thicker fluid in the front.

For bodies check out Delta Plastiks 1/7 scale options:
https://deltaplastikusa.com/collections/1-7-scale-bodies

For speed run speeds make sure the rear spring pre-load collar is full tight and make sure the front rides significantly lower than the rear. (we call this Rake in the suspension setup) The "droop screws" in the lower a-arms is one way to easily lower the 6s models.

Dumb it down... I live in Alabama!

I will check the 2 center diff gears I have. I know he had a HUGE pinion on it. So big that when I tried to put it in the kraton I could barely get the mount screws in.

Whether I can handle it or not, I can't wait to hit 100mph

You said 500k-1m in center, thicker in front. What is the viscosity to cst? 10k thicker or thinner than 100k? Based on recommendations I assume the higher cst the thicker? So what sct for front and rear is a "safe range" for mostly drifting then occasional speed?

Seriously... that last paragraph reminded me of how stupid I am. Please type slowly and in crayon so I can keep up

When you are making a thread, this option is somewhere. You aren't able to post without selecting it
View attachment 180150
It's the prefix thing

My hero

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Dumb it down... I live in Alabama!

I will check the 2 center diff gears I have. I know he had a HUGE pinion on it. So big that when I tried to put it in the kraton I could barely get the mount screws in.

Whether I can handle it or not, I can't wait to hit 100mph

You said 500k-1m in center, thicker in front. What is the viscosity to cst? 10k thicker or thinner than 100k? Based on recommendations I assume the higher cst the thicker? So what sct for front and rear is a "safe range" for mostly drifting then occasional speed?

Seriously... that last paragraph reminded me of how stupid I am. Please type slowly and in crayon so I can keep up

My hero

Just search Amazon for the diff fluids 500k or 1 million (1 mill front, 1 mill center, 500k rear)

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=500k+diff+fluid&ref=nb_sb_noss_2


To lower the front use the droop screws in the lower a-arm. Drilling a small hole in the upper a-arm helps you access them without stripping them.
Try to do both sides the same amount.

Skip to 5:58.
It would be best if you watch all 6 of his videos in this series. Lots of great info!

 

[The Bean]

In diff oil, there is no real difference between CST and wt.
CST is more precise and is mostly important with shock oils. In diff oils, you can ignore the unit

 

[GoFastBreakFaster]

Just search Amazon for the diff fluids 500k or 1 million (1 mill front, 1 mill center, 500k rear)

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=500k+diff+fluid&ref=nb_sb_noss_2


To lower the front use the droop screws in the lower a-arm. Drilling a small hole in the upper a-arm helps you access them without stripping them.
Try to do both sides the same amount.

Skip to 5:58.
It would be best if you watch all 6 of his videos in this series. Lots of great info!

There goes my afternoon! Thank you sir