Kraton Hot Racing Aluminium Steering Blocks Upgrade?

TalionSWB · Dec 12, 2017

Has anyone on here had any experience with the Hot Racing aluminium Steering blocks for any of their 1/8 scale Arrma trucks?

http://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=AON21M01;c=926

The stock plastic composite steering blocks on my Outcast and Talion have split once and the hub nut feels like its damaging the plastic when i screw it in.

Any benefits of these over the stock blocks?

WoodiE · Dec 12, 2017

@TalionSWB Hot Racing makes fine products and the aluminum will certainly be stronger than the stock plastic.

slick2500 · Dec 12, 2017

I think @KrazyKraton14 has them.

Crash · Dec 14, 2017

I use these and they're great! Pillow ball kept popping out when jumping due to the weak plastic. One of my favorit parts on the truck. Very well built!

KrazyKraton14 · Dec 14, 2017

slick2500 said:
I think @KrazyKraton14 has them.

Tnx slick.
Yup solves the popping out

TalionSWB · Dec 14, 2017

WoodiE said:
@TalionSWB Hot Racing makes fine products and the aluminum will certainly be stronger than the stock plastic.

Hey WoodiE
Thankyou for the response, I agree Hot Racing make very nice products. Just wondering whether the weight increase if the front hubs over the stock plastic ones might make the truck nose heavy during jumping?

slick2500 said:
I think @KrazyKraton14 has them.

Thankyou for the info Slick!

Crash said:
I use these and they're great! Pillow ball kept popping out when jumping due to the weak plastic. One of my favorit parts on the truck. Very well built!

Hey Crash
Have you noticed any increase in the weight at the front with these aluminium carriers cause it to be nose heavy especially when jumping?

Crash · Dec 14, 2017

No real noticeable change. The camber stays in place as well and will keep front end very stable. Other than the diff cups its by far my favorite part from hot racing. The bearings that came with the knuckles have lasted quite a while. Longer than oem and fast eddie bearings.

TalionSWB · Dec 15, 2017

KrazyKraton14 said:
Tnx slick.
Yup solves the popping out

Krazy Kraton that is one very impressive looking Kraton you have setup there!
I see that you have the Hot Racing Steering Bellcrank aswell. What benefits hace you noticed with the HR Alu Steering Blocks and what benefits does the HR Alu Bellcrank offer over the stock steering assembly?

Crash said:
No real noticeable change. The camber stays in place as well and will keep front end very stable. Other than the diff cups its by far my favorite part from hot racing. The bearings that came with the knuckles have lasted quite a while. Longer than oem and fast eddie bearings.

I've been looking at those HR Alu diff cups aswell. What benefits have you noticed over the stock cups?

slick2500 · Dec 15, 2017

TalionSWB said:
Krazy Kraton that is one very impressive looking Kraton you have setup there!
I see that you have the Hot Racing Steering Bellcrank aswell. What benefits hace you noticed with the HR Alu Steering Blocks and what benefits does the HR Alu Bellcrank offer over the stock steering assembly?

I've been looking at those HR Alu diff cups aswell. What benefits have you noticed over the stock cups?

While I have no personal experience with the Hot Racing stuff you asked about, from everything I have read the plastic in the stock bellcrank has a lot of flex, this eliminated that flex. The stock diff cups can get really hot and the plastic gets hot then the pins that hold the gears inside the diff cup twists inside the cup. The heavier wt oil you run the hotter the diff will get as well. After a decent run the other day my center diff was 135* the hottest thing in the entire truck.

Crash · Dec 15, 2017

The screws don't back out cause ur able to use loctite. I can get even amount of torque so I know the gear wont wobble. Being aluminum it will be cooler. Thats all I can think of. The first one I did was the center diff. That was in july. Screws are still tight and never an issue. Now I have one on all 3 diffs. Forgot to add when i had the plastic diff cup in the rear using 6s I could hear the gears grinding now that I'm using the hot racing diff cup in the front and rear I have also used extra shims on the outside bearings to keep the entire diff tight inside the bulkhead. Now even when I'm on the street in dry conditions the only thing I'm tearing up are my tires the gears have a great connection and it's very solid.

dpricenator · Dec 18, 2017

The BELL CRANK from Hot Racing it a solid part. It took a ton of play out of the steering. You will need one of the small differential shims to go on top of the bearing.

slick2500 · Dec 18, 2017

dpricenator said:
The BELL CRANK from Hot Racing it a solid part. It took a ton of play out of the steering. You will need one of the small differential shims to go on top of the bearing.

I tried this on the stock bellcrank to try and get rid of the up and down play and it made it too tight =(

dpricenator · Dec 18, 2017

The HR BELL CRANK tightens up play in other places. The shim on top will now rest on the bearing and will only be too tight, if you over tighten the screw. The bottom of that screw hole is just shallow enough that the head of the screw does not quite get down on the post. a shim or 2 fill the gap.

nulli · Dec 20, 2017

Replacing the bushings with bearings and adding shims up & down did the trick with stock stuff.

TalionSWB · Dec 24, 2017

slick2500 said:
While I have no personal experience with the Hot Racing stuff you asked about, from everything I have read the plastic in the stock bellcrank has a lot of flex, this eliminated that flex. The stock diff cups can get really hot and the plastic gets hot then the pins that hold the gears inside the diff cup twists inside the cup. The heavier wt oil you run the hotter the diff will get as well. After a decent run the other day my center diff was 135* the hottest thing in the entire truck.
View attachment 14132

View attachment 14133

Thats a huge upgrade. Lower temps and improved structural strength are definately worth the it. My rear diff is making loud noises and the 43T spiral gear is being chewed up.

dpricenator said:
The BELL CRANK from Hot Racing it a solid part. It took a ton of play out of the steering. You will need one of the small differential shims to go on top of the bearing.

I really dislike the play in the steering. I will definately be investing in the HR steering

Crash said:
The screws don't back out cause ur able to use loctite. I can get even amount of torque so I know the gear wont wobble. Being aluminum it will be cooler. Thats all I can think of. The first one I did was the center diff. That was in july. Screws are still tight and never an issue. Now I have one on all 3 diffs. Forgot to add when i had the plastic diff cup in the rear using 6s I could hear the gears grinding now that I'm using the hot racing diff cup in the front and rear I have also used extra shims on the outside bearings to keep the entire diff tight inside the bulkhead. Now even when I'm on the street in dry conditions the only thing I'm tearing up are my tires the gears have a great connection and it's very solid.

Im having a major problem with my rear diff right now! A loud clicking noise turned out to be 3 missing teeth on the 43T Spiral gear (#AR310497) on the rear diff. I installed a new gear but the clicking noise is still there! My trucks been out of action for over 2 months now. Any ideas as to what it could be?

Crash · Dec 24, 2017

Check the rear pinion gear and pinion gear bearings. Also check the rear center Drive Shaft cup to see that it's firmly connected to the pinion gear. Inspect you're diff bearings to make sure that they're still in good shape. would check the side to side movement of your differential inside the bulkhead you might need to add a few shims. make sure that the rear Diff access screws on your bulkhead are tight as well and not stripped.

maxbraketorque · Dec 29, 2017

Crash said:
I use these and they're great! Pillow ball kept popping out when jumping due to the weak plastic. One of my favorit parts on the truck. Very well built!

KrazyKraton14 said:
Tnx slick.
Yup solves the popping out

Interesting. I've broken almost everything on my Kraton at one point or another, but I've never had a pillowball pop out of a steering block

slick2500 · Dec 29, 2017

maxbraketorque said:
Interesting. I've broken almost everything on my Kraton at one point or another, but I've never had a pillowball pop out of a steering block

I've only ever popped one out, but that was because the steering block was cracked.

maxbraketorque · Dec 29, 2017

slick2500 said:
I've only ever popped one out, but that was because the steering block was cracked.

Yeah, that's what I was thinking would be the only way for my experience as well.

GUSI RC · Dec 30, 2017

dpricenator said:
The HR BELL CRANK tightens up play in other places. The shim on top will now rest on the bearing and will only be too tight, if you over tighten the screw. The bottom of that screw hole is just shallow enough that the head of the screw does not quite get down on the post. a shim or 2 fill the gap.

With the HR bellcrank, how many mm from the chassis up do you put your servo saver 'screw' (that compresses the servo saver spring)? I had it 5mm from the chassis, but the servo saver was too tight for my liking. I have adjusted it to 4mm now.

Kraton Hot Racing Aluminium Steering Blocks Upgrade?

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