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With some 3d printed brackets I am able to mount a 50mm fan to my 36mm motor.
And the front shocks are almost ready.
And the front shocks are almost ready.
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Everytime I crash it’s down to filming and driving silly thing to do when going fastHit the wheel of a parked van at full speed. Shouldn't drive with 1 hand, film with the other hand when I am driving 3s for the first time with obstacles around.
Thanks for sharing such specific details. This is some seriously good information. Nice work. Let us know how it handles when you get it out!Worked on the shocks today. The shocks that I am using at the rear, were originally the front shock of the Kraton, the holes in the pistons are different. In general the piston holes are 1.2mm for the front shock and 1.4mm of the rear shocks for the 6s line.
In my case that resulted in way too much dampening in the rear, as the shocks are probably filled with stock Kraton 6s oil, which is 1000cst, vs 550cst of the Typhon 6s shock and 800cst that I am using in my front shocks.
I opened up my rear shocks and changed from 1.2mm piston holes and 1000cst to 1.4mm piston holes and 800cst.
It did the job.
At the front I now have 1.3mm piston holes. I think with 1.2mm and 800cst I will hit the sweet spot.
View attachment 341182
The newer piston are noticeably better made, they fit the shock tighter for a better 'seal'.
I made this video to show the difference:
For the front shocks I mounted shock boots:
View attachment 341183
I am very pleased with this upgrade, because I was not pleased at all with the original shocks. Now some weeks of patience for better weather...
Summary of the shocks:
Front:
- Shock Springs 70mm 1.13N/mm (Mojave) - ARA330637
- 1.3mm piston holes
- 800cst oil
Rear:
- Shock spring 84mm 0.94n/mm (Talion) AR330501
- 1.4mm piston holes
- 800cst oil
Hi all, recently I bought a second hand Typhon Mega for a reasonable price.
Idea is to convert it to 3S brushless and that will happen soon, expect to pick up the parts tomorrow.
View attachment 288577
Done so far:
- Purchased 2S lipo
- Purchased and mounted original wheels
- 60wt oil in shocks
- Removed 1 preload ring from the shocks, that did improve the handling
- Pinon gears came off, remounted and applied some thread lock
Future parts:
- Hobbywing Ezrun Max10 SCT ESC
- Hobbywing 3660SL 3200kv motor
- Driveshaft bearing
- 48dp 17t 5mm pinion
- 3s turnbuckles to fix extreme toe out
- 10.000cst oil for rear diff, 30.000cst oil for front diff
- Convert to EC5 connectors
Let's see how long the 48dp slipper clutch assembly holds up, if it fails, I know what to upgrade.
Also want to fix the wheel wobble, I find the engineering of that assembly a bit poor to be honest.
So, tomorrow I expect to have a nice
Driveshaft CVD | ARA210011 |
Wheel hex | ARA310988 |
Rear suspension arms | ARA330790 |
HINGE PIN 3X48.5MM | ARAC5029 |
HUB REAR: 4X4 BLX 4S | ARAC5043 |
Nice!Wrenching time!
Have all the parts now to convert the rear drive train of my Typhon to Mojave 4s spec
This stuff feels decent!
View attachment 358658View attachment 358660
No, these are the 3s turnbuckles that I used with the original arms as well.Did you change the turnbuckles. I swapped all 4 arms hubs and axles and can't get my wheels aligned right poop looks all wonky even after putting the Mojave turnbuckles in the front
And what is wonky? I don't understand what is the problem.I got one wheel tuned in this other side is just all wonky and it gets worse when I manually push it back and forth . The fronts have the Mojave turnbuckles and the rear is the stock. I haven't adjusted the rears
View attachment 364969
Start with the rear wheels, because they are the easiest.i guess wonky was the wrong word. i just cant seem to get all the wheels aligned maybe i just need more patience to get the tow and camber set better lol
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