Makes no sense, Max6 capacitors overheat ONLY in my Talion

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sumguy75

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Arrma RC's
  1. Notorious
  2. Talion
  3. Typhon 6s
I have 2 Max6 escs, the version before the G2 series. I had the first one in my Talion XL for a little while and started having it shut off in thermal protection, capacitors got too hot, the rest of the esc would be 120-130.
Bought a new one, had a few runs with no problems then the capacitors started overheating on it, less than a dozen packs run on it.
Swapped the first one onto my street Typhon and zero issues, capacitors always within 10 degrees of the rest of the esc temp. Have run 50 packs with no problem.
Put the newer second one in my Notorious to test it, ran 4 or 5 packs no issue. Went through my Talion and did all the diffs, all new bearings, replaced a slighlty bent center driveshaft and made it a street basher and it ran fine for a few packs then started overheating again.

Gonna toss it back in the Notorious and see how it does, but cant figure out what in the fkn fk is going on here
Any ideas other than sell the Talion on ebay?
 
Should have added I also replaced the motor. When I went through the diffs and replaced all the bearings I looked for binding issues everywhere I could think of and couldnt find anything.
Also, the old and new motor never get over 130-140 so I cant figure out why only the capacitors are getting hot, if there is binding shouldnt the motor overheat also?
I figure my next step is putting the spare spektrum esc in just to see if I can duplicate the issue with different esc.
 
Or gearing issues, cruddy motor bearings, big-assed tires on the Talion, etc? So many variables could come into play. Whatever it is, it is because of some serious and constant amp draw if the caps are overheating.
 
I would try a couple things, try the motor from the Typhon or Notorious in the Talion with the same gearing ratio (just to test)?

Another thought, try running without the cover? The Talion has a unique body for sure, could it be causing a weird air vortex inside? If that's the case you might need some speed holes :cool:

Black Hole Space GIF by xponentialdesign
 
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18/46 gearing, tires are Backflip LPs, motor is 4282 1780kv Hobbystar.


Ok here is what I see.. talion if I remember correctly runs typhon straight cut diffs?.. ment for buggy tires... Complete different gearing than a noto or outcast..

18/ with a 46 spur.. on LP's

You are talking a completely different animal than a noto chassis..

It's pure gearing from my standpoint.. you are asking a lot out of the power consumption side and the caps can't keep up with the current draw when they are getting whacked over and over again..

If you swapped everything out of the noto into the talion ( gearing wise) I'd bet dollars to donuts it works perfectly.. the only variable here is the gearing from what I see..
 
Or gearing issues, cruddy motor bearings, big-assed tires on the Talion, etc? So many variables could come into play. Whatever it is, it is because of some serious and constant amp draw if the caps are overheating.
My thoughts .....

Ok here is what I see.. talion if I remember correctly runs typhon straight cut diffs?.. ment for buggy tires... Complete different gearing than a noto or outcast..

18/ with a 46 spur.. on LP's

You are talking a completely different animal than a noto chassis..

It's pure gearing from my standpoint.. you are asking a lot out of the power consumption side and the caps can't keep up with the current draw when they are getting whacked over and over again..

If you swapped everything out of the noto into the talion ( gearing wise) I'd bet dollars to donuts it works perfectly.. the only variable here is the gearing from what I see..
yup yup
 
Ok here is what I see.. talion if I remember correctly runs typhon straight cut diffs?.. ment for buggy tires... Complete different gearing than a noto or outcast..

18/ with a 46 spur.. on LP's

You are talking a completely different animal than a noto chassis..

It's pure gearing from my standpoint.. you are asking a lot out of the power consumption side and the caps can't keep up with the current draw when they are getting whacked over and over again..

If you swapped everything out of the noto into the talion ( gearing wise) I'd bet dollars to donuts it works perfectly.. the only variable here is the gearing from what I see..
talion runs same gears as the kraton 6s spiral cut
 
It started life as a Fireteam so not the Typhon diffs. I just swapped shocks/towers, body, Talion EXB front bumper, wing, and smaller tires to make it an XL Talion.
Going to try the electronics from the Notorious just to see if I can duplicate the issue with a different motor/esc combo. If the Spektrum stuff works fine I'll leave it in the Talion and put the Max6/4282 combo in the Notorious. 😎
 
Capacitors only heat up due to high ripple voltage.
High ripple is only caused by higher than designed loads i.e. tires/gearing etc.

If you throw the Talion away, send it my way.
Cost to fix is ~ $5 for additional capacitors, if you want to leave everything else the way it is. Assuming there is no excessive binding etc.

Add some 8S (or 50V rated) capacitors in parallel. If you are interested I can give more details. Simple to do if you know how to solder.
 
What tires and gearing are on the Talion XL? It really sounds like it just can't keep up with the load to me. An extra cap pack may help, but I suspect it will just extend the time before it thermals again..
I know there are folks who have had issues with the G1 Max6, it is only rated at 160A vs the G2 @200A..
I really think it just needs a more capable esc myself since you've tested both of the Max6's in other setups, went through the XL completely.. nothing else left that I can think of.
 
Lots of good suggestions, much appreciated, gets me thinking better instead of being frustrated.😤🤣

If the diff case housing has an issue maybe there is binding/extra friction under loads that you cannot see on the work bench?
I considered replacing the diffs one at a time as Ive wondered if there is a subtle binding issue there that is hard to spot at my work table. If that isnt an issue no big deal as I have a build Im planning that I'll need all 3 diffs for anyway.

As you specifically mention the caps overheating, it could also be related to lipo's. Do you run the talion with packs you don't use in your typion/noto ? Or a connector converter or something
I only run 6s on the Talion, Noto and Typhon I run 4s so there is potentially issues with the connectors as the soldering job is over 2 years old and was done when I first started soldering. I have a new 6s battery on the way as I'm disposing of one of the older ones as one cell wont charge/discharge properly anymore.
Capacitors only heat up due to high ripple voltage.
High ripple is only caused by higher than designed loads i.e. tires/gearing etc.

Add some 8S (or 50V rated) capacitors in parallel. If you are interested I can give more details. Simple to do if you know how to solder.

What tires and gearing are on the Talion XL? It really sounds like it just can't keep up with the load to me. An extra cap pack may help, but I suspect it will just extend the time before it thermals again..
I know there are folks who have had issues with the G1 Max6, it is only rated at 160A vs the G2 @200A..
I really think it just needs a more capable esc myself since you've tested both of the Max6's in other setups, went through the XL completely.. nothing else left that I can think of.

18/46 gearing on Backflip LPs, shouldnt be too much for the setup except I tend to run it with mostly short quick 2-3 second bursts of full throttle since I don't have room to stay heavy on the throttle for long. Probably a lot of amp draw there. Will try adding a cap pack if the other changes don't work. Could be the Max6 G2 200a is needed for the way I run this one.
 
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