What size lipo are you guys running

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Dwy6262

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Hamburg
Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
Ok guys new to the thread here. Also fairly new to electric rc cars. I have owned nitro in the past. A buddy of mine had a granite that he couldn't get running and told me if i could get it going I could have it and run it with the kids. It turned out to be a tuning issue with the esc. It has an ezyrun 60a esc with a 5900kv brushless 4 pole motor. He had given me the battery and charger he used with it which is a traxxas 8.4v 3000mah nimh battery. Iam looking to run lipo. Just wondering what you guys are running. And what sizes would fit in the stock battery compartment. And if i were to go larger and ideas as to where to mount something to hold the battery.
 
These are the dimensions of the battery tray 6.18 x 1.89 x 1.06" (157 x 48 x 27mm).
This battery should fit in that tray easily http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_97&product_id=247
Length 138.93mm / 5.47in
Width 46.74mm / 1.84in
Height 25.1mm / 0.98in

5900kv is a 1/10 buggy motor and too high kv for the esc to handle in an offroad vehicle on 2s. The Granite would be much better off with a motor in the 3000-4000kv range, it will be slower but it will have a lot more torque. And in a monster truck you want torque.

These are the specs of the esc off the Hobbywing website.
1.6 Suitable Motor: * Note #1
With 4-6 cell NiMH/NiCd or 2S LiPo: On-Road≥5.5T, Off-Road≥8.5T
With 6-9 cell NiMH/NiCd or 3S LiPo: On-Road≥8.5T, Off-Road≥13T

turnstokv.jpg
 
Could that be why when i pull the trigger sometimes it delays(lags) like a safety feature? Also if i were to put smaller tires on it would that make up for the motor being too much? I know arrma runs the same platform on a different vehicle. Not sure off the top of my head what the name of it is lol. I just want to make sure iam understanding right. That size motor has to work too hard being the larger tires?
 
Could that be why when i pull the trigger sometimes it delays(lags) like a safety feature? Also if i were to put smaller tires on it would that make up for the motor being too much? I know arrma runs the same platform on a different vehicle. Not sure off the top of my head what the name of it is lol. I just want to make sure iam understanding right. That size motor has to work too hard being the larger tires?

That could probably be why yes.
You could run stadium truck tires on it yes.
Arrma Vorteks.
Yeah, the motor was designed for a vehicle that is much lighter as well.
You could always buy an eBay blue can motor, you might have to change out the connectors on the esc to 4mm if they are not already. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-3650-3...781125?hash=item361e7d9705:g:eOwAAOSwbYZXY2J1
I have had one of these in my Ecx Ruckus for well over a year and have had zero issues with it. It's insane on 3s https://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Perfo...795401&hash=item1eccfbd164:g:oUYAAOSwq1NZiOsa
 
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Awesome I will definately look into both motors. I was looking into the 11.1 volt batteries and possibly a 10000mah battery for longer run time. But they won't fit in the tray. Iam trying to come up with a solution to mount a tray. I was thinking along the side of the frame but i would have to put something on the opposite side to balance the weight out and i don't want to do that adding all that extra weight.
 
Keep with 2s for a granite. Gear it right and you can pretty easily get to 50mph. 3s will be a constant battle with broken parts. Mine has literally broken every time I run 3s, and I am not talking about crashes.

Capacity wise, 5000-8000mah is the sweet spot. I run a 2s 7200 and get 45 minutes of heavy bashing per charge. If that is not enough, get 2 packs and charge one while you use the other. With a properly sized charger you could run all day and only stop to swap packs.
 
Keep with 2s for a granite. Gear it right and you can pretty easily get to 50mph. 3s will be a constant battle with broken parts. Mine has literally broken every time I run 3s, and I am not talking about crashes.

Capacity wise, 5000-8000mah is the sweet spot. I run a 2s 7200 and get 45 minutes of heavy bashing per charge. If that is not enough, get 2 packs and charge one while you use the other. With a properly sized charger you could run all day and only stop to swap packs.

In theory yes, but that would be pretty hard on the electronics, you should allow like 10-15 minutes between packs to allow the motor and esc to cool. And you should also let your batteries cool down for a while before charging after a run. Its not necessary to do that but it is recommended to help prolong the life of the electronics.

And agree on sticking to 2s, everything I have broken on my Ruckus has been on 3s. And from my understanding the Granite has about the same durability as the Ruckus does.
 
You are reffering to gears stripping out right? And I will take that advice. Iam going to be getting a smaller kv motor as well. I had it out today after work for a bit and the esc kept going into limp mode because it was too hot. I had to keep letting it cool down.
 
In theory yes, but that would be pretty hard on the electronics, you should allow like 10-15 minutes between packs to allow the motor and esc to cool. And you should also let your batteries cool down for a while before charging after a run. Its not necessary to do that but it is recommended to help prolong the life of the electronics.

And agree on sticking to 2s, everything I have broken on my Ruckus has been on 3s. And from my understanding the Granite has about the same durability as the Ruckus does.

My motor and esc temps are fine (and stable) after a 45 min bashing session. My lipo is luke warm which is actually a great temp to charge at given your charge rate is appropriate. Keeping an eye on temps is great advice but it is possible to run these vehicles without having thermal issues. Given your temps are under control, I would argue it is better for the equipment to NOT let them cool down between runs. A heat cycle is a heat cycle regardless of duration.
 
My motor and esc temps are fine (and stable) after a 45 min bashing session. My lipo is luke warm which is actually a great temp to charge at given your charge rate is appropriate. Keeping an eye on temps is great advice but it is possible to run these vehicles without having thermal issues. Given your temps are under control, I would argue it is better for the equipment to NOT let them cool down between runs. A heat cycle is a heat cycle regardless of duration.

The time of year also plays a role in this, obviously during the dead of summer when it's 90+ degrees outside you wouldn't want to do this. In the fall or spring you should be fine. When I go out I usually bring 2 to 3 cars with me along with a couple of packs for each and just switch cars between packs.

You are reffering to gears stripping out right? And I will take that advice. Iam going to be getting a smaller kv motor as well. I had it out today after work for a bit and the esc kept going into limp mode because it was too hot. I had to keep letting it cool down.

I literally broke the chassis in half, broke a Rpm a arm, a few front axle carriers, shock caps, rod ends, a few servo horns, a few Ackerman bars, stripped the hexes in two wheels, and multitudes of axle shafts and stub axles. It's just so much more fun on 3s but breaks a lot more stuff.

On 2s about all that happened was I lost a steering link on a bad landing.
 
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Just picked these up. They take up the entire battery tray on my Kraton. Little bit of velcro to hold them together and i'm good to go. Can't wait to see how they run !
 

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These are the dimensions of the battery tray 6.18 x 1.89 x 1.06" (157 x 48 x 27mm).
This battery should fit in that tray easily http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_97&product_id=247
Length 138.93mm / 5.47in
Width 46.74mm / 1.84in
Height 25.1mm / 0.98in

5900kv is a 1/10 buggy motor and too high kv for the esc to handle in an offroad vehicle on 2s. The Granite would be much better off with a motor in the 3000-4000kv range, it will be slower but it will have a lot more torque. And in a monster truck you want torque.

These are the specs of the esc off the Hobbywing website.
1.6 Suitable Motor: * Note #1
With 4-6 cell NiMH/NiCd or 2S LiPo: On-Road≥5.5T, Off-Road≥8.5T
With 6-9 cell NiMH/NiCd or 3S LiPo: On-Road≥8.5T, Off-Road≥13T

View attachment 12892
So, I am looking for batteries for my Typhon. I am thinking the SMC 6700mah 90C 4S (http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_96&product_id=398). It will fit on the tray. Is the idea to max out the capacity as much as you can, if it fits? I mean, I know that the weight is a concern at 615grams, but getting 2x2S comes out to be a bit heavier. I would assume that the argument of 1x4S vs 2x2S is not really important, just personal preference?

But on the picture he is showing a 6700mah, 90C @ 145 amps. The one on SMC's website is rated at @131 amps. Is this the new model that Danny (from SMC) is referring to?
 
So, I am looking for batteries for my Typhon. I am thinking the SMC 6700mah 90C 4S (http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_96&product_id=398). It will fit on the tray. Is the idea to max out the capacity as much as you can, if it fits? I mean, I know that the weight is a concern at 615grams, but getting 2x2S comes out to be a bit heavier. I would assume that the argument of 1x4S vs 2x2S is not really important, just personal preference?


But on the picture he is showing a 6700mah, 90C @ 145 amps. The one on SMC's website is rated at @131 amps. Is this the new model that Danny (from SMC) is referring to?
Yes.
Yes.
The batteries that Sully posted are 3s lipos.
 
Ok so i had bought the 2s battery slick2500 had pointed out to me and it showed up monday evening. I finally got a chance to run the truck after work today for a little with it to see how it would run. It is a lot faster lol. It ran for about 10 minutes then overheated. I left it cool and thought i would at least finish running out the batterie but not even a minute in i heard a clanking noise and the truck barely moved. From what I can tell right now I spun the spur gear. But the trans is kinda like binding up. (See video if it uploads) is this normal? I pulled the case apart and everything looks good and works smoothly until I put the case back together again. Then it clicks and kinda binds like in the video. When i order the new motor I was thinking of getting metal gears to replace the plastic ones inside the trans thinking that may help a bit. Plus it would be harder to strip out.
 
You might have grenaded the diff, it is hard to tell. If you stripped the spur or pinion you would be able to see it. I will wait till you get your video posted and watch it to see what is going on.
 
Have you checked the bearings? Check and make sure they all spin freely and don't make any noises.
If it is not a bearing tear the trans apart check all the gears, and tear the diff apart too.
And the out drive for the diff looks like it has seen better days.
 
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