Typhon Typhon stopped dead, battery cables stuck in diff

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

<pAuL>

Member
Messages
35
Reaction score
9
Location
Edmonton, Canada
Arrma RC's
Hello all! I just need to share a rather serious problem I had with my Typhon. I was running my almost new buggy the other day, when suddenly it stopped dead. I had steering control, but no forward or reverse. Inside, I popped the body, and to my great surprise, my battery cables had slipped into the small opening on the main diff gear housing, and were shredded to bare wire, and shorted out my buggy!

Off to my RC store. Luckily, my electronics survived, but my $60 baterry was puffed and fried!! The exposed wires were repaired using liquid electrical tape. So, I'm up and running again, minus $60. I don't no if all Arrma trucks have this potential problem, but Typhon 6s owners should check for this situation. I don't understand why the diff housing doesn't extend further, which would eliminate this problem. Race and learn I guess!
<pAuL>
 
same happened on my kraton just when i switched batteries once, but didnt notice until after the run, the spur cut through almost the whole battery cable lol, went to my lhs and they shortened the cables and resoldered :)

most mistakes will only happen once ;)
 
Lol
 

Attachments

  • 20160908_175603.jpg
    20160908_175603.jpg
    178.3 KB · Views: 79
Same thing here, but with my Senton I got too excited and tossed a 4s in an just ran it without doing a good check over and I didn't notice that from the factory the jumper wire was pinched between the battery tray and the spur so I got 15 feet before it cut the wire.. no damage done otherwise.
 
I use a simple zip tie to the top plate of the center diff and ive never had an issue with my wires entering the gears. Also eliminated the factory dual battery get-up for single 4s batteries and that tied things up a bit for me as well.
 

Attachments

  • 20170305_202544.jpg
    20170305_202544.jpg
    251.6 KB · Views: 75
Great advice. I need your thoughts on this. I do not have reverse on my Typhon. I tried to do a factory reset on the ESC but still no reverse. Everything else seems fine. Running 6S lipo.
 
Hello all! I just need to share a rather serious problem I had with my Typhon. I was running my almost new buggy the other day, when suddenly it stopped dead. I had steering control, but no forward or reverse. Inside, I popped the body, and to my great surprise, my battery cables had slipped into the small opening on the main diff gear housing, and were shredded to bare wire, and shorted out my buggy!

Off to my RC store. Luckily, my electronics survived, but my $60 baterry was puffed and fried!! The exposed wires were repaired using liquid electrical tape. So, I'm up and running again, minus $60. I don't no if all Arrma trucks have this potential problem, but Typhon 6s owners should check for this situation. I don't understand why the diff housing doesn't extend further, which would eliminate this problem. Race and learn I guess!
<pAuL>


same thing happened to me. i added a length wise strap on my battery and secured my wires to and and also used a strap to hold the extra wire to my body tower brace. thinking about buyint the Outcast battery box for my Kraton.
 
Use tie wraps on your wires.......and plenty of them. Wire management is a high priority because the consequences of a failure are so severe. Strap'em and wrap'em......
 
After a few runs, the 2 battery harness rubbed on something, and went through the insulation. Luckily, no short happened, phew. So I heated up the iron, and removed the massive excess of 10 gauge. I'm only planning to use single 4S or 6S packs. If for some reason I need to run 2 smaller packs, I'll use my compact "no-wire" XT-90 adapter. Without the wires, my canopy fits on much more easily and quickly, and no more rubbing off the paint from cable bundle. Now, it is more easy to quickly swap in different size and shape Lipos without having to sort out the bundle. On a side note, the stock soldering was actually beautiful and inspired me to be a better solderer!
 
After a few runs, the 2 battery harness rubbed on something, and went through the insulation. Luckily, no short happened, phew. So I heated up the iron, and removed the massive excess of 10 gauge. I'm only planning to use single 4S or 6S packs. If for some reason I need to run 2 smaller packs, I'll use my compact "no-wire" XT-90 adapter. Without the wires, my canopy fits on much more easily and quickly, and no more rubbing off the paint from cable bundle. Now, it is more easy to quickly swap in different size and shape Lipos without having to sort out the bundle. On a side note, the stock soldering was actually beautiful and inspired me to be a better solderer!
This is thee very first "mod" i did to my typhon. One run and i knew i didnt like the stock setup. My body was showing paint wear after one run. I run larger 6700 mah 4s packs so any room i can make is very beneficial. Helping hands will make you a far better solderer btw. Harbor freight or amazon has them pretty cheap. You wont regret it.
 
I have a nice little soldering helper, and feel good about my soldering, just was pleasantly surprised at the factory job :) I made sure mine were as solid. Thanks!

After I removed the old harness, I sat it next to a 4S hardcase and it literally was the same footprint (in plan) area as the battery.
 
I have a nice little soldering helper, and feel good about my soldering, just was pleasantly surprised at the factory job :) I made sure mine were as solid. Thanks!

After I removed the old harness, I sat it next to a 4S hardcase and it literally was the same footprint (in plan) area as the battery.

I use a pair plires and a rubber band to keep them clamped shut, free hand to hold the wires!!
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top