Outcast Recommended Arrma Outcast Springs & oil Wight

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Raji

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Arrma RC's
Hi everyone,
These are recommendations for the Arrma Outcast springs and shocks oil. I collect comments from members here in the form and Youtube. I make it easier for you:D


-I'd recommend just a slightly stiffer set overstock and use 90k front/75k rear shock oil

-Stiffer springs help reduce after bounce with bigger landings. As far as front dipping and break flipping, my Orange Teknos have vastly improved this running in rough, loose, and high traction surfaces. A lot of this boils down to driving style and personal preference.

-I'm running 70 in the front and 55 in the rear I'm hoping the Tekno orange springs will suite!!

-70/60 oil on stock springs

-I went with Yellows all around, and 1000CST shock oil in all four.
the yellows with the thicker oil provide nice damping without too much stiffness.
I have my preload set to about 3/4 of max.
Good ride height handles well, absorbs bumps very nicely.
I also set my shock rebound to almost max, which keeps the tires planted over bumpy terrain, and levels the truck out nice and quick under transitional steering/maneuvers.

-Tekno orange up front and yellow in the back.

-Tekno Orange in front and Yellow in back. Tried 50 front and 40 back

-50-60 front with Tekno oranges, 40 rear with yellows has been way better overall, far less breakages and better handling

-orange fronts with TLR 60 oil, yellow rears with TLR 50

-For my shocks I am running Tekno MT410 shocks in the front with Tekno orange springs TKR6093 and 60 wt Associated shock oil. The rear shocks are stock Arrma shocks with Tekno orange springs TKR6083 and 50wt shock oil. Shocks are perfect except I keep breaking shock pistons on the rear. Going to go for the Tekno MT410 shocks in the rear as well.


That all Have fun.
 
Thanks for sharing! I plan to eventually do this, but want to get a few runs in first. So I can have a good comparison.

So far my Outcast is holding up well, two runs so far. Second session involved a lot of crashing, as I was attempting to do back flips. Built myself a mini jump with scraps, quite proud of myself in fact. Don't remember the last time, I built something that went according to plan. haha

Pleasantly surprised by the durability, every crash had me cringe, thinking "oh man that's broken for sure!".
 
Thanks for sharing! I plan to eventually do this, but want to get a few runs in first. So I can have a good comparison.

So far my Outcast is holding up well, two runs so far. Second session involved a lot of crashing, as I was attempting to do back flips. Built myself a mini jump with scraps, quite proud of myself in fact. Don't remember the last time, I built something that went according to plan. haha

Pleasantly surprised by the durability, every crash had me cringe, thinking "oh man that's broken for sure!".

You are welcome. It is better to wait until you become familiar with the car and know its weakness according to your driving.
Wow, I'm sure you have fun with this ramp.
Yeah it is really durable.
 
I ordered the tekno springs. Orange for the front and yellow for the rear. But after placing my order i noticed there were more than 1 size for diameter. The lengths I selected were 80mm Orange in Front, and 90 mm yellow in Rear.

1.6x7.5t Orange in front 80 mm

1.6x9.5t Yellow in the Rear 90 mm

So can anyone tell me did I order the correct ones. Before they ship them out, that way if I did order the wrong springs I can change them before its too late.

Thanks, everyone on this forum has to this point been awesome.
 
Not thread jacking... same subject

So the outcast is a basher! What are ppl recommending for big jumps running a heavy heavy set of 3s batteries??

If u can provide part numbers that wuld be sweet!!!
 
I ordered the tekno springs. Orange for the front and yellow for the rear. But after placing my order i noticed there were more than 1 size for diameter. The lengths I selected were 80mm Orange in Front, and 90 mm yellow in Rear.

1.6x7.5t Orange in front 80 mm

1.6x9.5t Yellow in the Rear 90 mm

So can anyone tell me did I order the correct ones. Before they ship them out, that way if I did order the wrong springs I can change them before its too late.

Thanks, everyone on this forum has to this point been awesome.

I have no Idea, Tell us how it's going to work with you.


Not thread jacking... same subject

So the outcast is a basher! What are ppl recommending for big jumps running a heavy heavy set of 3s batteries??

If u can provide part numbers that wuld be sweet!!!


I saw people using Orange springs front and Yellow rear. I recommend the same. If it goes bad, you would go with Tekno Shocks and Springs. But there are pricey around $80
 
So does anybody know the reasoning behind running stiffer orange springs in the front? I just purchased a cpl sets. I threw the 90mm orange in back and the 90mm yellow up front. My reasoning is when I'm breaking hard i like the nose to dip down a tad. I feel it helps with breaking and just looks awesome. Also the batteries and motor are closer to the back so it makes sense to put the stiffer springs where the weight is.

Any thoughts.........
 
Hi everyone,
These are recommendations for the Arrma Outcast springs and shocks oil. I collect comments from members here in the form and Youtube. I make it easier for you:D


-I'd recommend just a slightly stiffer set overstock and use 90k front/75k rear shock oil

-Stiffer springs help reduce after bounce with bigger landings. As far as front dipping and break flipping, my Orange Teknos have vastly improved this running in rough, loose, and high traction surfaces. A lot of this boils down to driving style and personal preference.

-I'm running 70 in the front and 55 in the rear I'm hoping the Tekno orange springs will suite!!

-70/60 oil on stock springs

-I went with Yellows all around, and 1000CST shock oil in all four.
the yellows with the thicker oil provide nice damping without too much stiffness.
I have my preload set to about 3/4 of max.
Good ride height handles well, absorbs bumps very nicely.
I also set my shock rebound to almost max, which keeps the tires planted over bumpy terrain, and levels the truck out nice and quick under transitional steering/maneuvers.

-Tekno orange up front and yellow in the back.

-Tekno Orange in front and Yellow in back. Tried 50 front and 40 back

-50-60 front with Tekno oranges, 40 rear with yellows has been way better overall, far less breakages and better handling

-orange fronts with TLR 60 oil, yellow rears with TLR 50

-For my shocks I am running Tekno MT410 shocks in the front with Tekno orange springs TKR6093 and 60 wt Associated shock oil. The rear shocks are stock Arrma shocks with Tekno orange springs TKR6083 and 50wt shock oil. Shocks are perfect except I keep breaking shock pistons on the rear. Going to go for the Tekno MT410 shocks in the rear as well.


That all Have fun.

Hey Raji,

Thanks for posting, really quick question. Does ARRMA fill the shocks with oil at the factory? I purchased one recently and barely have had 2 runs and was curious if they came pre-filled with oil.

Thanks!
Jaybe312
 
So does anybody know the reasoning behind running stiffer orange springs in the front? I just purchased a cpl sets. I threw the 90mm orange in back and the 90mm yellow up front. My reasoning is when I'm breaking hard i like the nose to dip down a tad. I feel it helps with breaking and just looks awesome. Also the batteries and motor are closer to the back so it makes sense to put the stiffer springs where the weight is.

Any thoughts.........

I also like how it's dip while breaking. many people use the orange upfront to stop dipping while breaking.

"Stiffer springs help reduce after bounce with bigger landings. As far as front dipping and break flipping, my Orange Teknos have vastly improved this running in rough, loose, and high traction surfaces. A lot of this boils down to driving style and personal preference."

Hey Raji,

Thanks for posting, really quick question. Does ARRMA fill the shocks with oil at the factory? I purchased one recently and barely have had 2 runs and was curious if they came pre-filled with oil.

Thanks!
Jaybe312

You Welcome @jaybe312

Yes, they come filled with oil already

How to build shocks Video
https://www.arrma-rc.com/tv/channel/kraton/gENOho44G30
 
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I run Tekno yellows front and back.
This allows front end dip under braking, but adequate suspension travel under load.
To answer your question, usually softer springs in the back allow for ‘squat’ under acceleration, which is important to maintain traction especially over rough terrain. Running orange in the rear will make the back end to stiff, especially if you have a lot of preload set on the shocks. This will create ‘chatter’ on the back wheels over rough surfaces under throttle and consequently - loss of traction.
Those who use orange up front and yellow rear tend to prefer a stiffer front end because they are really launching their rigs. An ideal landing will have the front wheels touch down a fraction before the back, so the stiffer springs help to stabilize under hard landings.
That said...’chassis slap’ (when your rig’s chassis actually makes momentary contact with the ground under a hard landing), is normal - and expected. These rigs are designed for it, and it helps dissipate the huge amount of energy built up up on big air/landings.
As for oil...personal preference, but generally most run ~ 50-60 weight.
I am running 45 front and 50 rear, but plan to run 50 front and 60 rear.
Remember, springs handle keeping the truck properly ‘sprung’, oil affects damping.
Don’t try to adjust your damping via the springs, or preload adjustment.
Excessive spring force always makes the rig more unpredictable and bouncy and will not allow the shocks to function as intended.
If you go orange up front, use a thin(er) oil to offset the excess springs rate. High spring rate and high viscosity oil will not allow suspension components to function properly and thereby induce transference energy to other surrounding components.
 
I run Tekno yellows front and back.
This allows front end dip under braking, but adequate suspension travel under load.
To answer your question, usually softer springs in the back allow for ‘squat’ under acceleration, which is important to maintain traction especially over rough terrain. Running orange in the rear will make the back end to stiff, especially if you have a lot of preload set on the shocks. This will create ‘chatter’ on the back wheels over rough surfaces under throttle and consequently - loss of traction.
Those who use orange up front and yellow rear tend to prefer a stiffer front end because they are really launching their rigs. An ideal landing will have the front wheels touch down a fraction before the back, so the stiffer springs help to stabilize under hard landings.
That said...’chassis slap’ (when your rig’s chassis actually makes momentary contact with the ground under a hard landing), is normal - and expected. These rigs are designed for it, and it helps dissipate the huge amount of energy built up up on big air/landings.
As for oil...personal preference, but generally most run ~ 50-60 weight.
I am running 45 front and 50 rear, but plan to run 50 front and 60 rear.
Remember, springs handle keeping the truck properly ‘sprung’, oil affects damping.
Don’t try to adjust your damping via the springs, or preload adjustment.
Excessive spring force always makes the rig more unpredictable and bouncy and will not allow the shocks to function as intended.
If you go orange up front, use a thin(er) oil to offset the excess springs rate. High spring rate and high viscosity oil will not allow suspension components to function properly and thereby induce transference energy to other surrounding components.
I like it.
What springs are you using in the Outcast?
 
Makes sense. I wanted to retain some handling which is why I choose yellow for the front. And I'm catching pretty good air (around 10-15' high sometimes) so wanted stiffer in the rear where the weight is at. Not sure why one would want squat under acceleration with a 4wd platform. More rear squat means less traction in the front and more front tire ballooning I would think. Or maybe my logic is just off :)
 
Makes sense. I wanted to retain some handling which is why I choose yellow for the front. And I'm catching pretty good air (around 10-15' high sometimes) so wanted stiffer in the rear where the weight is at. Not sure why one would want squat under acceleration with a 4wd platform. More rear squat means less traction in the front and more front tire ballooning I would think. Or maybe my logic is just off :)
Interesting let's see experts opinion
 
I’m not certain of the weight bias on the Outcast, but I don’t think it is as rearward as you think. The steering rack, bell crank, suspension a-arms (2/side), steering knuckles/links, 2 pillow balls on each side, the ESC, the servo - ALL are in the front half. Yes, the battery helps even it out, but I don’t believe there is more weight in the rear. By squat, I mean you want the back end to sit, settle, stay put...not for the truck to tilt back at a 45 degree angle. With springs too stiff you won’t get as much bite because less weight is being displaced (maintained more precisely), on the rear tires. The whole idea is to keep the rear planted as much as possible under accel. If you had 50/50 weight distribution under acceleration, that may be ideal in some circumstances (loose surfaces, mud, snow etc.), but generally it will also cause more understeer while turning (a known issue with the Outcast, as it does not turn well in ‘on-throttle’ situations). Forward momentum automatically induces rear bias, as the weight transfer moves fore to aft.
With springs too stiff in the rear, your truck will bounce more...and more bounce = less stability. When you consider the natural tendency for rear bias under acceleration - it makes sense to want the back end to maintain traction and let the shock damping affect suspension travel. This ultimately allows the tires to keep constant contact with the ground. Springs to stiff will have a ‘pogo’ effect...as the tire will rebound too quickly, break traction and comprise stability. Also, springs need to be soft enough to allow independent travel on either side. If they are too stiff then the wheel opposite to one being compressed over uneven surfaces will lift and lose traction.
When you brake at speed, you get a LOT of forward momentum...another reason some prefer stiffer up front, as it allows a more even weight distribution across all 4 corners under forward load which increases overall grip and slows the truck more quickly.
I have had good results with Tekno yellows on all 4 corners. Others prefer orange front and yellow rear. I have read a few different posts where users report unfavourable results running orange all around - it’s just too stiff.
In the end there is no perfect answer...I would urge you to try it both ways, and see which you prefer. That is the beauty of the hobby, everyone adapts the vehicle to their preferences and driving habits. You can read pages of opinion regarding differential oils used across all three diffs. Some like 500wt in the middle, some run 150wt, etc.
Same with shock oil weight.
Point is - dofferent strokes for different folks - it’s definitely not a ‘one size fits all’ approach, but there are some physics that need to be accounted for that are based on mechanical considerations primarily, and are not so much user-defined.
I have a Gen 1 Outcast...and the factory springs were just way to soft. The yellows seem to stiffen things up quite nicely, but also allow the truck to retain its damping action.
In the end it’s about balancing shock damping, with spring rate. Go to extreme’s with either and you just end up counteracting the other.
Like they say with all things in life - it’s all about balance! Avoid extreme’s...everything in moderation blah blah blah
:rolleyes:
 
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Sounds like u don't actually know what ur talking about.... lmao jk

U really do know ur stuff, so thanks again buck!

I'l try the orange in the front. If it's to much I'll go yellow all four corners and give it a whirl
 
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You bet! Do keep us posted on your findings after experimenting! ;)

Hey just an afterthought here. Not sure if you already have the springs, but if you do then swapping will not work as the springs (front and rear), are a different length (80mm front, 90mm rear).

B4441C2E-036A-4A16-84B2-DB0F1C170EBD.jpeg
 
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