Outcast Orange Outcast in stock at Tower. Who's getting it?

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Yes... You souldve used soldering iron to heat it up... Comes straight out no problem then.
How far out were your fronts?
 
Yup figured it would be like others I have removed.

Pretty bad I would never run it the way it was.
 
This is my first rc like this so it is taking me a little bit to get a hang of how it drives.
My other Rcs are.
  • Ecx 2wd Ruckus
  • Traxxas 2wd Stampede
  • Traxxas Summit 1/10
  • Team Associated Apex
  • Team Associated RC10B2
And now for my first thoughts

I took it out for its maiden voyage and man it is fun to drive, on 4s it has a lot more power than I was expecting. I crashed a lot as I am still getting a feel for it. This thing will wheelie for days, but not enough power on stock gearing to do a back flip. Even managed to wheelie right into a sign, thankfully I wasn't going to fast and it just smacked it right in the middle of the chassis.

When jumping the car it seemed to always want to nose dive off of every jump, so pretty much every time I crashed I either did a nose landing then onto the roof or it landed right on the roof, as a result from this one of the rear shock towers ended up poking a hole in my body (as a side I can 100% confirm the body is not painted orange it is made from orange plastic) I had one funky landing where it kind of landed awkward into a rut and I ever so slightly bent one of my front driveshafts. Other than that it held up great to my horrible driving. Can't wait to try 6s.

And a pic of my stickers, cuz why not.
pwiKuCSl.jpg
 

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Just been painting the ute tray of my outcast black... I was bored and wanted to see how looked.
Started sanding back some overspray and my wet n dry paper turned orange!!
Its painted on the inside like normal... Then has a coat of flat orange on the outside!
 
Weird that some people are getting painted bodies and some are getting orange plastic bodies.

Soften the rear shocks maybe?
No it was just my bad driving, I was letting off the throttle going off the jumps because I was afraid to break it.
 
Got maybe 1/2 way through my first 6s run, did not end well. I made a tower to tower brace and for some dumb reason my stupid ass thought that zip tying it to the front chassis brace was a good idea. The tower brace ripped the front chassis brace out then the front of the chassis bent. So I hobbled this together out of my failed tower to tower brace. It's not pretty but it will hold me over until I get the Hot Racing chassis braces in. And I did everything minus drilling the holes by hand with a hacksaw and a file. I had the front end of this thing apart and together about 20 times today checking fitment ect. On one of my fittings I realized the center driveshaft was rubbing, it does clear now but I might take it back out and file some more off the side.

2AQOwMXl.jpg


I still have enough aluminum rod left over to make a Thomas P style tower to tower brace and if I really felt like wasting another day I could make a rear chassis brace too.
 
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Just got my Orangecast today and after unboxing it I already have a few nit picks, my front alignment wasn't even close, both front wheels were toed out something bad. I am willing to bet they used an entire tube of thread lock on this thing, I had to fight the screws in the motor mount to get them out, the pinion was caked with thread lock and the grub screw instantly stripped out :mad: I should have heated it up before I tried to remove it. The manual makes it look so easy to remove too.......
Sounds like u had a female dog of a time. Did the pinion have red thread locker on it ??
 
It appeared to be blue. But I've never seen blue thread lock hold like that.
 
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