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Discussion in 'Typhon' started by Exceeded, May 18, 2017 at 10:16 PM.

  1. Exceeded

    Exceeded Well-Known Member

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    Hello all! I am new to ARRMA RCs as there is not a single agent from where I live in Asia.Therefore, I have other brands which my LHS stock due to parts support and availability. However, just yesterday, I pulled the trigger and purchased a Typhon V2 from Amain. As I am new to Arrma, I would like to ask about the buggy's set up,(as in chassis layout) is it quite similar to the Vorza Flux(aside from the weight) and MP9E ? I mainly bash. This buggy does use xt90 male connectors right? so I would need a female xt90 for my battery? I have went through several thread and Typhon owners have not break anything.Is it really that durable? (not against brick wall terms:p) I am not a good basher and landed many times on my Vorza's bodyshell and wing, and all I gotten was a dented bodyshell( which I am able to push out without cracking it as I had applied automotive glue on the inside of the shell yay!) and a couple of bent screws holding the mount for the wing at the shock towers.Nothing broke on the VF even with my "commendable" bashing abilities:confused:

    This is the first ever ARRMA I am going to own and I am very excited.As I do not have parts support where I live, do I need to take note of anything for the Typhon in particular?

    Sorry for the lengthy post as I would like to know about you guys as well as the buggy.tips/tricks especially front & rear ride height for bashing, how many mm to turn down the rear and front shocks. I usually tune my ride height after I put in the batteries.o_O

    cheers and have an awesome weekend !
     
  2. Mikuri

    Mikuri Well-Known Member

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    Good choice! I'm also waiting on my Typhon to come home.

    It does use XT90 connectors, but any adapters are fine if your Lipo don't have XT90 connectors yet. Arrma products are made for Bashers, so they are quite resistant! My Talion is holding pretty good! Maybe check for RPM A-Arms as that is what I break most of the time with any RC...

    For shocks you adjust depending on your experience. If you bottom too much on jumps, you might want to have heavier fluid and/or stronger springs. I know that I need to do this with my Talion.
     
  3. Gozar

    Gozar Well-Known Member

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    Make sure you get an extra wing mount . As I've heard the break easy.
    Welcome to the arrma club
     
  4. Exceeded

    Exceeded Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for the warm welcome guys! noted on the heavier fluid and/or stiffer springs Mikuri! I will install my batteries and test my ride height first. ETA is 2 June.HAHA. but it is ok.i have other parts on the way too so hope all coincides and come together.
    Oh yea Gozar, you have a good recommendation,is it still the same for the V2? as I thought that they had strengthen it. I am asking as I always tend to land the wrong way:(
    I am going to post some pics when I am done dressing her up!
     
  5. Gozar

    Gozar Well-Known Member

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    Not sure about the V2 mate. But for what they cost it's always worth having a spare .
     
  6. Exceeded

    Exceeded Well-Known Member

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    I had also purchased a futaba4pv along with my new typhon as well as some blings from Hot racing and other accessories(all of which hasn't arrive). I would like to enquire,is it possible for me to install the futaba 4pv receiver with no antenna tube as I didn't notice an antenna tube compartment from the arrma typhon receiver's box? Will range be affected or glitching issues? Much appreciated!
     
  7. Exceeded

    Exceeded Well-Known Member

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    on a side note, I had owned vehicles that are able to run "4S - 6S" so running 5S should be ok. However I read on some reviews it is stated as "4S/6S" instead of "4S-6S". Therefore I would like to know if all these 6S capable Escs need to run in packs of 2 cell increments to avoid damaging the esc.
    Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated! :rolleyes:
     
  8. Mikuri

    Mikuri Well-Known Member

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    You can run 2S and 3S lipos. You could even make a 5S total, but you would need to turn off the lipo checker and use your own lipo voltage alarm on each lipo.

    Some people also run 3S but I would stay at 4S minimum.
     
  9. Exceeded

    Exceeded Well-Known Member

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    Thank you Mikuri for your reply! I was thinking of running a single 5S in the rig. Moreover I gone through many threads and found out that Arrma are a little Gung-ho with the red loctite,hope that I could unscrew the screws easily for my Hop ups
     
  10. Mikuri

    Mikuri Well-Known Member

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    A single 5S would be awesome :)
    Many people say it's the sweet spot.
     
  11. Exceeded

    Exceeded Well-Known Member

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    I could not have said so better myself
     
  12. Bigfella

    Bigfella Well-Known Member

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    Red loctite is your friend. If it spins fast and is metal to metal, I use red loctite, especially on the pinion. I do use blue on the set screws going through the wheel hexes though. The key is knowing how to get it off easy. I can get the red loctited pinion off in about 1 minute.

    The key is to use a heat gun. Concentrate the hot air on the pinion for about 10 sec. It comes right off.

    It's much easier to work with the motor and pinion if you have the hot racing motor mount. I highly recommend it. It will make your life easier. The HR center diff holder is also a good upgrade. You need to externally shim the center diff if you use them though. It's not hard, you just basically add some shims. See this post.

    https://arrmaforum.com/threads/a-solution-found-to-the-hot-racing-motor-mount-center-diff-fitment-problem.4029/
     
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