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My Kraton Upgrade Thread

Discussion in 'Kraton' started by disturbedfuel15, Jun 29, 2017.

  1. jonUF02

    jonUF02 Well-Known Member

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  2. disturbedfuel15

    disturbedfuel15 Geek Extraordinaire!
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    I got the front and rear diffs shimmed, but when trying to remove the motor mount to access the middle diff, my brand new bondhus driver snapped off inside of the bolt. I am angry and I don't know what to do.
    screwed.jpg
     
    #22 disturbedfuel15, Jul 7, 2017
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2017
  3. jonUF02

    jonUF02 Well-Known Member

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    I had to drill the screws out and get a new HR motor mount. Can try to dremel a slot and use flat head, but I didn't want to damage the plate.
     
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  4. disturbedfuel15

    disturbedfuel15 Geek Extraordinaire!
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    That's horrible. First bad thing I found on this truck.
     
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  5. jk420

    jk420 Well-Known Member

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    On your next go around try heating it up with a soldering iron first, then try to break loose. Sorry this happened to you. Hope you get it figured out.
     
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  6. disturbedfuel15

    disturbedfuel15 Geek Extraordinaire!
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    Well, I ended up breaking my soldering iron. I thought the screw was holding the tip in, so I unscrewed it and then grabbed the tip with pliers to pull it out. Oops, I pulled other tube out of the middle, and sparks flew out. Now my soldering iron no longer heats up any more. That one- MY BAD. I felt like a dumass, lmao.

    Anyway, no luck and just more stripping. I did successfully drill one of the bolts out, and I even got lucky and managed to extract one of them using a new bit set i bought at the hobby shop. More on that later. So I took the truck back up to the hobby shop and said, "I am lost, I have no idea how to get this bolt out. Help me please."
    So we did this:
    1) took battery tray and dogbones out so motor mount could be turned (only the one stubborn bolt was holding it)
    2) Removed diff from mount so it wouldn't get hurt
    3) violently thrashed the motor mount back and forth in an attempt to weaken the bolt
    4) manager went in the back and got a huge crowbar, pried the motor mount off (broke the bolt).
    5) no harm done to any part of the truck, except the motor mount (obviously unusable)
    6) ordered hot racing motor mount, awaiting arrival.

    20170708_212215.jpg 20170709_115638.jpg


    I was so heated over this. I can't believe any manufacturer would think soft, threadlocked, steel bolts would be a good idea going in to an aluminum mount. For that matter, I can't believe how soft these bolts are overall. Whew. Anyway, hot racing mount looks like a nice upgrade because I found out exactly how much of a PITA is was to remove the motor from the mount. Literally, took like thirty quarter turns with an L allen wrench to get the bottom bolt out. Horrible! The hot racing one allows you to slide the motor back and forth, and tighten the position down with one bolt; frickin genius!

    I also ordered orange tekno springs to hit that $50 mark with towerhobbies and get a cool $8 off.

    This whole ordeal made me seriously think about my tool set. This hobby requires hardened, expensive tools if you don't want to struggle. It's just that simple. So, I bought a Team Associated 1655 Factory Team 8-Piece 1/4" Hex Driver Set from the hobby shop. I like it so far. It feels precise and looks pretty too, lmao. I also bought a Ryobi HP44L QuickTurn 4-Volt Lithium-Ion 14 in. Cordless Screwdriver to avoid carpal tunnel. Not much to say about it; it is lightweight, and serves it's one purpose very well.
    20170709_115711.jpg

    With the help of that, and youtube, I managed to replace every stock bearing (and a few bushings in the steering column) with Avid bearings. Very nice. Here is a pic of the old ones in the bag:
    20170709_115647.jpg

    I also replaced all the diff fluid, and shimmed the diffs. 500k in the middle, 100k in the front, and 60k in the rear. Actually, I need to redo the front and rear because I got that reversed. Oh well. Maybe I should just run it to see how I like it before replacing? What do you guys think???

    Also, I noticed when I turn the diff, it is slightly notchy. Does this seem normal? It is not so notchy that it is hard to turn, but it has a few clicks in some spots.

    Lastly, what grease do you guys recommend for the part where the diff gear (the big gear the diff case gets screwed against) rests against the small, perpendicular gear in the box? Here is a picture showing the two gears I am referring to. It looks like they put some kind of brown grease on there from the factory. Is white lithium grease okay??
    diffQuestion.jpg
     
  7. jonUF02

    jonUF02 Well-Known Member

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    HR mount is a great upgrade. Makes it really easy to swap the motor or pinion without taking everything apart.
     
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  8. disturbedfuel15

    disturbedfuel15 Geek Extraordinaire!
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    Wait a minute- there is no difference between the front and rear diffs right??? Can't I just swap the front for the rear if I got the viscosity mixed up between the front and rear?
     
  9. jonUF02

    jonUF02 Well-Known Member

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    Correct
     
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  10. dpricenator

    dpricenator Supporting Member!
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    Yes, you can swap the front and rear diffs, and I use White Lithium Grease on those parts. Good call on the good tools, and the Power screw driver. I ordered my driver the day after I shimmed all 3 differentials with the Allen Wrench that came with the car. I will never do that again.
     
  11. jonUF02

    jonUF02 Well-Known Member

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    What power screwdriver have you found that has small metric hex drivers?

    I use synthetic bearing grease inside the diff case, works great. I had some white lithium for bicycle chains, but it didn't work as well. Really thin.
     
  12. dpricenator

    dpricenator Supporting Member!
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  13. disturbedfuel15

    disturbedfuel15 Geek Extraordinaire!
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    ^^Yeah, I would have bought those, but my local hobby shop has been so supportive, I wanted to throw em some bones. The associated set was the best set they had :)
     
  14. dpricenator

    dpricenator Supporting Member!
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    I don't see anything wrong with the TeAM a$$ wrenches. I was just showing the other dude, what you could use with a power screw driver. Even with the nice tools, I have 2 screws I need to remove that are completely rounded out. I'll be notching then with a dremel in a couple of hours. Wish me luck.
     
  15. dpricenator

    dpricenator Supporting Member!
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    I got my screws out. Tried with a coule Torx Bits, and the just notched em with a dremel tool. Was able to get a lot of work done last night, in a very short amount of time. Separate thread with pics coming later.
     
  16. disturbedfuel15

    disturbedfuel15 Geek Extraordinaire!
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    I am glad, man. These screws can be a real pain in the a$s
     
  17. dpricenator

    dpricenator Supporting Member!
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    It was my fault too. I used too much Loctite under there.
     
  18. disturbedfuel15

    disturbedfuel15 Geek Extraordinaire!
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    Yeah, I just use gorilla glue or jb weld, as recommended by arrma for the motor mount.
     
  19. disturbedfuel15

    disturbedfuel15 Geek Extraordinaire!
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    Alright, she is all put back together and ready to go for a run today. Hot racing motor mount is undeniably better than the stock, as you can slide your motor in to the mount, and set it with one top mounted bolt- nice.
    20170715_115200.jpg
    Avid bearings all the way around
    20170715_115214.jpg
    Outcast battery box. I had to drill 4 new holes, and I kind of misjudged the holes for the posts, so I had to elongate them a bit. That's alright because at least the bolt holes lined up. No big deal.
    20170715_115037.jpg 20170715_115058.jpg
    RPM wing mount installed, although I don't know how much better it is... oh well it's RPM so it's guaranteed for life.
    20170715_115300.jpg
    Of course, had to finish her off with some orange Tekno springs all the way around. Tekno is great; they gave me a 25% veteran discount. So if you want cheaper hop ups, just sign away your life for four or five years. lol
    20170715_115010.jpg
    Can't wait to take her out today. I have to modify my ramp so it is not so vertical at take off. But, it should be a fun day. I'll let you guys know how it goes!
     
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