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Kraton turned dragster on 8S. Any suggestions on gearing, stability, setup, tuning etc?

Discussion in 'Kraton' started by TMINOR, Jan 11, 2018.

  1. TMINOR

    TMINOR Well-Known Member

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    Im running a Poseidon 1500 motor on a Max 6 esc In my Kraton and I’m looking for tips on how to get Off the line as fast as possible. Help!
     

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  2. ssmiljanic

    ssmiljanic Well-Known Member

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    That is some serious kit...
     
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  3. joostin420

    joostin420 Member

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    Nice big motor ;) Are you using a spool/locker in center diff?

    I am building mine with tp power 4070cm 2200kv with hw max5. I looked at Poseidon motors also. Interested in your cap pack; what is it?

    Justin
     
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  4. TMINOR

    TMINOR Well-Known Member

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    What’s up Justin - it’s a Poseidon cap pack. I posted a pic below with the specs. It’s on their site 40 bucks...Works great so far. I’m on a hobby wing max 6 esc, I’ve got a 38 tooth spur gear off a 1/5 scale Apache running a 29 tooth pinion right now. Im waiting for a guy to build me a 40 tooth spool. I’m havjng issues though keeping this monster stable at high speeds. Lots of wobble past 60 MPH. Trying to make sure the tires are balanced, and everything is tight. Just not sure how to get this RC to law down a little more and be more stable. Thoughts? I removed the wing because it just creates more downforce and now I’m thinking that down force might help? But it could slow me down ultimately. She’s heavy. Testing and tuning but I’m open to advice. Your build sounds cool.

    Tarik
     

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  5. justpassedu

    justpassedu Well-Known Member

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    I believe the rpm arms have a extra hole to move your shocks outward more for a lower stance and possibly a few of the aftermarket aluminum shock towers .
     
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  6. Megasty

    Megasty Well-Known Member

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    That RPM bumper will direct air under the chassis & generate lift. You should mount something like a Raider wing to the front. It'll look sweet & generate tons of downforce.

    When you really want to get in the triple digits this is a likely scenario:

    0111180858.jpg
    A little WIP. A Kraton with Typhon Arms & hubs, & a full XO-1 chassis. It weighs 17 lbs :eek: Don't mind the buggy tires, I was just ripping around with it today. With the XLX & 1717 1275kv X-Maxx motor on 8S, it can do 73 mph. The weight is holding it back but is definitely keeping it on the ground. I have another setup for it with a fastlane motor mount & Castle 2028. I used the stock spur & 50t pinion for a 1 to 1. I need a runway to get it to top speed but on the block long strip I ran it on it reached 118 mph.
     
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  7. TMINOR

    TMINOR Well-Known Member

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    Megasty, That's a great setup. I like your idea of using a Full XO-1 chasis. I'm definitely going to get into more speed runs, but right now I'm dragracing with this guy and I'm focused on the 132 foot run. I'm thinking I'm going to go to some foams as well. But I know the real problem here, this is a basher, one hell of a basher, and I'm trying to fit a square peg into a circle hole. It's fun gearing it for acceleration. Right now i'm on a 38 tooth spur, a 29 tooth pinion, and I'm about to drop down to a 24 tooth pinion (if it fits) to see it she'll really blast off the line.I'll look into that Raider wing. Great idea to create the downforce in the front.

    That's
    Justpassedu - moving the RPM arma to the outer hole will definitely give me more of a lower stance, but I read on the Arrma site, that for maximum traction, the inner hole is suggested. I'll have to try the outer one to see how she reacts. Testing and tuning. testing and tuning. thanks!
     
  8. Megasty

    Megasty Well-Known Member

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    The problem with foams is that you throw traction & acceleration out the window. That car actually did start of as a Kraton, terrain & road crusher tires. It had plenty of grip & acceleration but the wheel wobble killed the top end control.

    The wobble comes from the play in the hex adapter, or rather the gaps between the hex, axle, & bearing. Most of the cheap $4-5 china hex adapters actually fit TIGHT. That will eliminate the vertical wobble. Unfortunately, the lateral wobble is needed to allow the bearing to spin freely, it comes from the axle pin hole being set 2mm away from the bearing. It's not something that can easily be remedied even through shimming. But you will gain a great deal of control with the tight hex alone.
     
  9. TMINOR

    TMINOR Well-Known Member

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    Yes. that makes perfect sense. When i first noticed the flex in the hex adapter, I dug in and replaced the bearings thinking that was it. It helped because I bashed the hell out of the old bearings, but the gaps are still there. Do you have a link to the 4-5$ hex adapters your talking about. Thats good advice bro
     
  10. Megasty

    Megasty Well-Known Member

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    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rc-1-8-T10121-Red-Aluminium-Alloy-Wheel-Hex-Hub-Nuts-Pins-Set-Of-4-M4T7/173047134375?hash=item284a69b8a7:g:2nAAAOSwSdZaPZ06

    The last time I got some it was like 5 sets. They directly fit on the cars with the short hubs, Talion, Typhon, & Senton. But for the Kraton & Outcast you have to add a 1/4" washer first, the kind you get in a big pack from Menards or Home Depot. The washer is a perfect fit over the axle & will slightly help the lateral wobble w/o seizing the bearing.
     
  11. TMINOR

    TMINOR Well-Known Member

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    Thanks bro. When your going 70 MPH every little thing counts as you know
     
  12. justpassedu

    justpassedu Well-Known Member

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    For street running and a lower stance i always go out as far as i can . Dropping the car will provide better handling and i believe traction so i think the arrrma site may have got that wrong , all you can do is try.
     
  13. TMINOR

    TMINOR Well-Known Member

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    True. I think the Arrma sites focus for the Kraton really is on jumping, bashing and turning offroad (since it is really a Truggy) so I agree with you that their description and suggestions for traction, are not in any way designed to address drag racing or speed runs. Thx again.
     
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  14. MSemenas

    MSemenas Well-Known Member

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    About the only thing I can add is that looking at your pictures it looks like the front tires are toed out. That is good for making tight turns off road but will make it squirrly as hell at high speed on pavement. Set the toe as straight as possible. Also make sure the camber is set so the tires are sitting as flat as possible on the pavement. (more traction) Any time you change ride height you'll have to re adjust the camber so get your height the way you want it first.
     
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