Outcast Home made chassis brace

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Does the Outcast have issues with bending/flexing when jumping?
Not as much as the Kraton due to SWB chassis, but it is still vulnerable to bending in the back with hard tail/wing landings. If wing mount screws strip out/bend and rear support system breaks, your rear chassis gets bent upwards at front rear suspension mount in front of diff. I've done it once on Outcast platform. I refuse to jump big now without tower to tower support on.
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Here's a quick good tip on how to make wing mount to the rear diff housing nearly unbeatable. On my Kraton, Talion and Outcast, I take the m3 bolts out, drill and tap to M4, I then install a 1/4 inch sleeve from hardware store and put a 3/4 M4 bolt in. I promise, you will never strip or shear another wing mount bolt.
 
Not as much as the Kraton due to SWB chassis, but it is still vulnerable to bending in the back with hard tail/wing landings. If wing mount screws strip out/bend and rear support system breaks, your rear chassis gets bent upwards at front rear suspension mount in front of diff. I've done it once on Outcast platform. I refuse to jump big now without tower to tower support on.View attachment 8371 View attachment 8372

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Ha ha !! Just had a mad session with a few mixups in the air, big tail drop !!
I used your method to straighten the chassis Rich worked a treat as so easy. I only changed the rear chassis brace yesterday but did not break it just bent the crap out of it. It's hot weather here that might have saved it.
I did split 1 screw flute in the underside of the diff case and split the part (don't know what it's called) that holds the wing mount on to the rear diff case, you know the part billy k forgot to put back in Gotta find a Aluminium chassis brace.
Thanks for the tip bud. Cheers !!
Need to work a tower to tower what's the best method ??
 
Here's a quick good tip on how to make wing mount to the rear diff housing nearly unbeatable. On my Kraton, Talion and Outcast, I take the m3 bolts out, drill and tap to M4, I then install a 1/4 inch sleeve from hardware store and put a 3/4 M4 bolt in. I promise, you will never strip or shear another wing mount bolt.
OF so does the sleeve drop in the rear plastic part of wing where M3 screws go in stock?
 
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Ha ha !! Just had a mad session with a few mixups in the air, big tail drop !!
I used your method to straighten the chassis Rich worked a treat as so easy. I only changed the rear chassis brace yesterday but did not break it just bent the crap out of it. It's hot weather here that might have saved it.
I did split 1 screw flute in the underside of the diff case and split the part (don't know what it's called) that holds the wing mount on to the rear diff case, you know the part billy k forgot to put back in Gotta find a Aluminium chassis brace.
Thanks for the tip bud. Cheers !!
Need to work a tower to tower what's the best method ??
No problem Camo, glad you got it straightened. Some guys are drilling out solid 3/8" aluminum rod at each end and tapping for 4M screws to attach through upper center tower at each end. I've been using 1/2" aluminum tube from Home Depot and notching to fit front and rear tower. I zip tie mine on top of front tower and secure in back like below. I fitted a dense rubber plug in slotted rear and put a very firm pad under brace on top of wing mount. Looks hokie, but it doesn't move at all and has really no give. Very snug fit. Easy to remove for wrenching.
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Wanted to add that I dig OF's brace and will try that same setup if mine fails me for some reason. Forgot what thread I was on....Lol.

That pic has the 1/2 inch spacer. Just use correct length bolts
Thanks bro, thought I heard you mention this mod before. Definitely is a weak spot on these rigs. Much appreciated. Need to getter done!!!
 
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Here's a quick good tip on how to make wing mount to the rear diff housing nearly unbeatable. On my Kraton, Talion and Outcast, I take the m3 bolts out, drill and tap to M4, I then install a 1/4 inch sleeve from hardware store and put a 3/4 M4 bolt in. I promise, you will never strip or shear another wing mount bolt.
When you say tap and drill the m3 screws out to m4, does that mean drill all the way through even the diff housing ?
 
I think the single central brace rod - while an improvement, does lead to more bends.

The double-rod approach seems to keep the truck stiff without increasing the chance of bends.

This is mostly anecdotal though, as I've not run a single one myself. Just thinking as an engineer...
 
Chassis slap is not a bad thing. This is one of the most important traits of the flat panel 1/8 scale drive-trains. If you prevent the chassis from making contact on hard landings then the suspension would need to absorb all the energy...leading to bent shock parts.

I'm starting to see more and more carnage shots of bent chassis plates on the media folder. Are these from landing on the wheely bar assembly? Or are these regular landings gone bad with stiff tekno springs and loaded up shock pistons?

You can still pickup a chassis for $20 so it's not like it's draining the bank account but I'm sure the time to swap plates would be a pain in the ass.
 
Chassis slap is not a bad thing. This is one of the most important traits of the flat panel 1/8 scale drive-trains. If you prevent the chassis from making contact on hard landings then the suspension would need to absorb all the energy...leading to bent shock parts.

I'm starting to see more and more carnage shots of bent chassis plates on the media folder. Are these from landing on the wheely bar assembly? Or are these regular landings gone bad with stiff tekno springs and loaded up shock pistons?

You can still pickup a chassis for $20 so it's not like it's draining the bank account but I'm sure the time to swap plates would be a pain in the ass.
Couldn't agree more about needing chassis slap to absorb impacts. The rear chassis tweaks are usually from either really bad single wheel landings or hard wing landings with an "epic fail" of the rear support system. If the wing mount/rear chassis support system fails the rear tower pitches forward and bends the chassis right at the rear front suspension mount. The tower to tower brace atleast stops the rear tower from bucking forward. Voltage Hobbies is working on an under chassis brace for our Arrmas. Will likely try it out when released.
 
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Ha ha !! Just had a mad session with a few mixups in the air, big tail drop !!
I used your method to straighten the chassis Rich worked a treat as so easy. I only changed the rear chassis brace yesterday but did not break it just bent the crap out of it. It's hot weather here that might have saved it.
I did split 1 screw flute in the underside of the diff case and split the part (don't know what it's called) that holds the wing mount on to the rear diff case, you know the part billy k forgot to put back in Gotta find a Aluminium chassis brace.
Thanks for the tip bud. Cheers !!
Need to work a tower to tower what's the best method ??


Rich, I swear - I thought it was supposed to be bent!
 
Rich, I swear - I thought it was supposed to be bent!
The front has a bend OOTB but the back end should be straight. If the rear is bent then your chassis brace would be broken as well
 
Rich, I swear - I thought it was supposed to be bent!
I second what Camo replied with. The rear chassis should be straight/flat. If it's bent upwards, you likely cracked where the wing mount attaches to the diff case and the lower chassis support at the nut. It can appear intact until you remove it and inspect, if still running the stock plastic support anyway.
 
View attachment 8316 Here's my home made chassis brace,very solid.I thought about a tower to tower brace but a good hit could take out both f/r diff case.With the one i made you can stand on the center of the frame while both ends of the frame are on 4x4 blocks.
I'll pay you if you can make me one of them chassis braces for my outcast no joke let me know if you can do thanks Derek!!
 
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