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Arrma RC's
A few of us have been having issues with this rear cup/bearing. For some reason no matter what any of us have tried the grub screw will not stay put. This causes the rear wheels to get zero power.
 

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I could be wrong, but the bearing, behind the cup, does not look fully seated. Here is a picture of a new stock gearbox, with the bearing fully seated.
s-l1600.jpg
 
Looks like you just need open the diff housing, push the pinion flush against the inner bearing, and push the cup all the way flush on the outer bearing before you tighten the grub screw. Use a dab of blue loctite on the grub as well but be careful not to get in the bearing.
 
Looks like you just need open the diff housing, push the pinion flush against the inner bearing, and push the cup all the way flush on the outer bearing before you tighten the grub screw. Use a dab of blue loctite on the grub as well but be careful not to get in the bearing.

Is there a flat on that shaft? If not, adding one would certainly help. Loctite will get it to stay, just a matter of proper application and a strong enough color. Blue<Red<Green. Green is a mean SOB so tread lightly if you go that far!
 
Is there a flat on that shaft? If not, adding one would certainly help. Loctite will get it to stay, just a matter of proper application and a strong enough color. Blue<Red<Green. Green is a mean SOB so tread lightly if you go that far!
Blue loctite works fine on this application. It does have a flat spot.
 
Blue loctite works fine on this application. It does have a flat spot.
Happened to me today on the Kraton. Yep there's a flat spot on the shaft. Just pull the grub screw out push the out drive cup and bearing back in spin till u see the flat spot on the shaft and tighten with a little lock tight. My grub screw was still tight and thread locked when I backed it off. I think a big jump must have slid it forward ??
 
Happened to me today on the Kraton. Yep there's a flat spot on the shaft. Just pull the grub screw out push the out drive cup and bearing back in spin till u see the flat spot on the shaft and tighten with a little lock tight. My grub screw was still tight and thread locked when I backed it off. I think a big jump must have slid it forward ??
These cups have a history of coming loose. They're one of the first things I check when my driveline has an issue. The grub will feel tight and trick you. I've gone to checking for snuggness before every bash. Mine also seem to break free after brutal nose or tail landings.
 
Sounds like the grub is not the problem. Green 680 loctite is a retaining compound for cylindrical parts. If the tolerance between the shaft and cup is tight enough it will certainly do the trick (this would go on the shaft, not the grub). You will need heat to get it back apart.

Just a thought, I do not have this truck but have successfully used this in other similar applications.

LOCTITE® 680 Retaining Compound is ahigh strength, high viscosity room temperature curing adhesive used to join fitted cylindrical parts. It fixtures in 10 minutes and provides a shear strength of 4,000 psi. Capable of filling diametral gaps up to 0.015 in. (0.38 mm). LOCTITE 680 allows relaxed machining tolerances, and replaces clamp rings, set screws, and snap rings. Gives best resistance to dynamic, axial and radial loads. Recommended for retaining shafts, gears, pulleys and similar cylindrical parts. NSF/ANSI 61 Certified. ABS Approved.​
 
I pushed everything back yesterday and used blue loctite. That was around 5pm or so. It has been sitting now for over 24hrs due to rain so all should be well. If not I assume a better grub screw will be in order...
 
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