Affordable 1/10 scale aluminium shock upgrade

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If you send us the measurement from eye to eye of the front and the back, we will be happy to help you find them. Please send them in millimetres.

Thanks @mrbelloso , but I can't atm as my tools haven't arrived yet. I thought Australia post was bad lol. I'll measure up when my tools arrive which could b anytime now. Or can I measure them on the car with no weight on the shocks?
Thanks again
 
What I used are like this, but mine are dark gray and 3.5mm instead of 4mm, but these would work:

ser110411.jpg


From: https://www.hobbytown.com/serpent-3x5x4mm-aluminum-shim-10-ser110411/p233738

Found another source for these spacers. A package of 25 cost me $9.37 delivered and I had them in 2 days. I ordered them from Digi-Key.
 

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STRC racing upgrades in my opinion are the best way too go. They are reliable, affordable, and a direct drop in replacement aluminium part upgrades for most Arrma vehicles. They have aluminum rear knuckles and front hubs.

image.jpeg
 
STRC racing upgrades in my opinion are the best way too go. They are reliable, affordable, and a direct drop in replacement aluminium part upgrades for most Arrma vehicles. They have aluminum rear knuckles and front hubs.

View attachment 2794

I almost bought them, but being that I'm working on 4 arrmas, buying the STRC components through tower hobbies was about $6 per set more than the Traxxas Big Bores + spacers. Gave me $24 to spend some place else...lol.
 
I tried the Big Bore shocks on my Fury but found the Traxxas 2660 Big Bore long shocks on the front to be too long (more specifically the shock body). If you compress the shocks, the chassis is still about 3/8" off the ground in the front. Ideally, when you compress the shocks all the way, the chassis should just touch the ground like the stock shocks. However, the XXL long shocks are a nice fit for the rear.

The Fury, Granite and Vorteks use a somewhat unusual shock length combination. It is basically 1/10 front buggy shock size up front and 1/10 rear short course size in the rear. I ordered a few different shocks that I think will be a better fit than the Big Bores and will be sure to report back what I find out.

Best regards,
Brian
 
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I almost bought them, but being that I'm working on 4 arrmas, buying the STRC components through tower hobbies was about $6 per set more than the Traxxas Big Bores + spacers. Gave me $24 to spend some place else...lol.

Well if those work for you that is great man! Gotta save a buck I understand. BUT... If you buy STRC parts, all of your other Arrma parts (in this case shafts, piston heads, screws, and seal) will all fit into these parts. So you can keep your stash of extra Arrma RC parts around because they can be saved and reused.

Also if you buy from STRC racing you will be sponsoring a great company that WANTS to bring us aluminum upgrade parts, such as rear knuckles and stealing hubs. Which in turn will get them to make more parts for us to use.
 
Also if you buy from STRC racing you will be sponsoring a great company that WANTS to bring us aluminum upgrade parts, such as rear knuckles and stealing hubs. Which in turn will get them to make more parts for us to use.

I get that, part of the savings on the shocks bought me a set of STRC hexes for MY Fury... :D
 
I found the Gmade 22307 XD 75mm diaphragm shocks to be a really good fit on my Fury. The shocks are super smooth and mostly match the stock shock travel. A couple of tips on using the shocks and mounting them -

1) I found it best to seat the bladder into the shock cap. I use a small flat blade screwdriver to gently push the bladder into the cavity inside the shock cap. Then, screw the shock cap on the shock body.

2) I used the ARRMA Fury lower shock rod end but with heat shrink tubing around the screw on end of the rod end. The heatshrink tubing increases the diamater of the rod end to better accept the Gmade lower spring retainer.

3) The top of the shock is easily mounted using the stock ARRMA plastic shock insert.

4) The Gmade shock springs just clear the cutouts on the front arms. Even if they just touch, it doesn't seem to have any effect on the suspension movement. If needed, you can use a 3mm washer behind the top shock mount plastic insert piece to center the shock between the suspension arm cut out.

Eventually, I plan on getting the Gmade 93mm shocks for the rear.

Best regards,
Brian
 
I ordered some of the Integy ones to try out.

The silver ones are pretty cheap right now if you order direct from Integy's website.

Item # : 1

This item will ship to you from our distribution center
Product name : Realistic Off-Road Shock (2) for 1/10 Scale w/16mm O.D. Square Spring (L=80mm)

Part num : C26023SILVER
Qty : 1
Price : $12.49
Total : $12.49


Item # : 2

This item will ship to you from our distribution center
Product name : Off-Road Shock for 1/10 Scale with 2 Stage Progressive Square Spring (L=100mm)

Part num : C25946SILVER
Qty : 1
Price : $9.25
Total : $9.25
 
I've also got a set of each of the following:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/272095566957?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281904640883?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

My stepdaughter wants green everything on her Granite, so I hit eBay in search of shocks. I did have to get creative with these. They fit fine right out of the box, but they ship with crap pistons that have huge slots in the sides. So after some trial and error with other parts I have laying around, I ended up with a Traxxas two hole piston on the Arrma shaft, inside the Chinese body, with the Chinese spring and shock cup, finished off with the Arrma mount. I probably could have just put some thicker oil in there, but even with 40wt in there the way they came, it felt like it might as well be water.

I just got them, so I'll get them mounted over the next few days and try to remember to report back on their behavior. Nice thing with the way I assembled them is that as long as she doesn't destroy the body, I used parts I can get around here to build them. And they are bladder shocks.

EDIT: Okay. I couldn't wait. I haven't finished putting the back ones together, but I threw the front ones on. The springs they come with are longer than the stock springs, but if I need to, the stock springs will fit on them. Here's how the fronts look.

20161021_201101.jpg 20161021_201212.jpg
 
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I just added some Traxxas 5862 Slash big Bore shocks on my Raider. For $40 at the LHS I got titanium rods, aluminum bodies, and enough shock oil to fill almost eight shocks. I just used the stock Arrma shock spacers that I trimmed down with a razor blade. Springs are pretty stiff, probably too stiff but I don't know enough about what I'm doing yet to really tune em in.
 
Rears are in. Same treatment as the fronts. Just threw the spacers on for the time being. The springs do feel a little softer, and it's riding a little high in these pics because I don't have a battery in it. 40wt oil front and rear for now.
20161025_223011.jpg 20161025_223105.jpg 20161025_223221.jpg
 
Got the Integy shocks yesterday.
20161028_165738.jpg




Here's a shot of the front Integy compare to the front stock.
20161029_125835.jpg




Here's a comparison of the rears.
20161029_132022.jpg




Fronts mounted. I've got one with a wonky adjustment collar, so I stuck spacers in between the collar and the top. I did have to make the opening on the bottom A-arm bigger, but not by much.
20161029_132953.jpg




Rears mounted. No modifications needed. You can see the T4 CVD conversion in here too.
20161029_133001.jpg




Dunno why I took a pic before I cleaned it out...
20161029_133014.jpg




20161029_134420.jpg
 
I present - especially interesting for European residents - another valid option:

Traxxas big bore shocks, TRX# 5862
US $40,- to $50,- / EU €65,- to €75,- for the set of four (4) as shown in the picture below.

front pitch: 84mm (fully extended, 78mm Arrma stock)
rear pitch: 99mm (fully extended, 98 Arrma stock)
largest diameter: 17mm (including spring, equal to Arrma's stock)

The Arrma Stock springs are compatible, so they do fit. The springs from Traxxas are as firm, or even more firm (to be confirmed)

Mind you there needs to be a spacer of 6mm added tp the front one INSIDE the cylinder around the rod underneath the piston. This way you can limit the maximum travel to make them work on your Arrma 1/10 scaler and 1/8 XL Raider.
A piece of silicon gas tubing will do the job.

The rear shock is a direct fit.

IMG_1428.JPG
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Shown here next to the Arrma (2015 and later) stock shocks front and aft

IMG_1426.JPG

Shown here on a Raider XL 2015
 
Great to read about all these alu alternatives. I popped one original shock to. The only doubt i have before instelling alu's, is that i am afraid if i go bashing again i demolish more other parts because the shock is no breakingpoint anymore. Do i worry about a problem that isnt there? How is your experience?
 
Great to read about all these alu alternatives. I popped one original shock to. The only doubt i have before instelling alu's, is that i am afraid if i go bashing again i demolish more other parts because the shock is no breakingpoint anymore. Do i worry about a problem that isnt there? How is your experience?[/]

I would worry about other things to break ;)
And with better shocks you have a bigger chance of getting into trouble, because you can drive faster with more control.
 
These Integy's I'm using are working great. I can haul ass across an uneven surface like a really crappy gravel road and they just soak it up and the truck looks like it's on smooth pavement, until you start watching the wheels instead of the body. Doesn't get unsettled at all.
 
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