4S or 6S

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Mikuri

Active Member
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Location
Québec
Arrma RC's
  1. Talion
Hello!

I'll be getting a Typhon or a Talion soon (newest models). I was wondering if I should get it to run 4S or 6S. I'd like to race it (friendly) and I'm wondering if 6S is really needed. Maybe more for the Talion since it's a bit bigger...

But then in races, Team Durango uses 4S, which are pretty much the same. So I guess that 4S is enough?

Also heat issues, I'm pretty sure that 6S is way easier to make it overheat... Top speed is cool, but if it's only to pop tires and break electronics, it's not worth it.

Any opinions?
 
If you're actually going to a track, they only allow 4s in racing, and typically I've heard, 6s power is too much for the design of the track, jump spacing, etc.
 
Yeah, I'm currently running 4S, and as you said it'll be way enough for a track since they are ratter small around here. I must run alone else the Talion is too big lol.

The Typhon, which I ordered today will be easier to race with along with SCT and such. I'll probably only use 6S for small speed run and such. I fear the motor will get too hot during casual bashing as 4S is already getting hot but low enough that I can forget about it.

Anyway 6S I wheelie too easily, which is annoying when racing :p
 
If you really get into racing, you'll probably want a more racing-oriented chassis, or at least upgraded electronics. I always use Castle ESC, because you can fine-tune your torque curve to create or prevent power in the range where you want it via software interface. Lots of other parameters too. I used the data logging on the MMX to figure out the exact pinion where I would not pull too much amps and overheat on 6s.

Typhon should be fun for racing on a smaller track.
 
I'll never get into serious racing, I just like racing casually with local people. We don't have big enough tracks around here anyway. They're mostly suited for 1/10 buggy. Data logging would be nice for temperatures :eek:
 
Going to 6S from 4S adds 160g in my case. It's not so bad, considering the power gain.
 
I'm staying with x2 3s . Cheaper to lose 1 3s then a 6s imo .
Safety 1st tho
20170519_142928.jpg
 
Indeed, that's also why I run 2x lipos. And that's funny because I ordered a new charger and it looks like yours. It's the Hitec X2. I know Hitec/SkyRc are the same company, but that's funny how they look alike.
 
Hello!

I'll be getting a Typhon or a Talion soon (newest models). I was wondering if I should get it to run 4S or 6S. I'd like to race it (friendly) and I'm wondering if 6S is really needed. Maybe more for the Talion since it's a bit bigger...

But then in races, Team Durango uses 4S, which are pretty much the same. So I guess that 4S is enough?

Also heat issues, I'm pretty sure that 6S is way easier to make it overheat... Top speed is cool, but if it's only to pop tires and break electronics, it's not worth it.

Any opinions?
Being a typhon owner with a few mods i personally found my typhon to be fairly competitive vs the local 1/8 buggy/truggy racers. They drop huge dollars on nice setups but half of them cant drive them to their full potential. Trust me they get mad when your $400 buggy stays with their $800+ setups or sometimes even beat them. My buddy has a talion and when were both on 4s he beats me most of the time. Im a hair faster but he can handle the turns better than i can. Both very good cars. His temps are surprisingly lower than my typhon and we both run larger pinions. 4s is plenty of power. Pushing about 45mph currently. Ive tried another guys typhon on 6s and its so overkill. Fun nonetheless. Congrats on the typhon. Best mods i can offer is to put the bigger pinion in immediately and install a fan and you'll have a ton of fun.
 
5S, but set to nihms in the ESC, its a no brainer when the batteries are running out of juice. Sometimes I go by a timer, other times just by how the truck feels.

A 5S on 17T/18T is silly fast, thats when that motor shines, good low end torque, and insane top end.
No joke, my 15T broke, slapped the 18T, and what was like what the hell just happened...

On 6S, for sure it will be a beast, but its too much power for a track, and overall 6S eats drivetrain, tear and wear is immediate.

I got two 3S and its once in a while I use them and only if there is lots of people to make a show, drag challenge against a nitro rc or for those power on tap days. But my battery of choice is 5S, 4S is more controllable, but the stock motor feels weak imo.

(this is my opinion, does not mean it is a fact, and applies to everyone else)

Model: ARRMA Talion.
IMG_20170323_172231.jpg


Gozar, just make sure the 3S is high C rating.

Those 2S are from my Rustler and Blackout Pro, and just to test waters put them on the Talion, but did not like them, could be the 40C thats too low. The two 3S are 60C-130C.
 
I have the 3s on 45c crankestein and run one at a time atm with the stock pin.
If I put the both 3s in I'll change the pin for sure.
Would an extra fan really be needed if they say it can run fine without?
 
I have the 3s on 45c crankestein and run one at a time atm with the stock pin.
If I put the both 3s in I'll change the pin for sure.
Would an extra fan really be needed if they say it can run fine without?
I was running my typhon on 4s with a 17t pinion and my temps on my esc/motor were around 140 degrees or lower. I do use a hobbywing fan/heatsink on my motor which helps quite a bit. Everything was fine and dandy til my esc fan went out without me knowing. Drove it in when my external lvc chimed and i noticed it wasnt working. Checked my esc temp which sailed over 200 degrees. Now i gotta do a warranty claim. On 6s i cant speak for. Though i cant see an issue if you use a proper pinion size.
 
IMG_20170401_113113.jpg


Not sure if maybe it got a little piece of grass, leave, pebble, but if it cant turn then they burn up. Maybe thats what happened, on mine it has one of those pads for washing dishes. I bought the set at Dollar Tree, I prefer those because they are very thin. Have had it since day one, and no matter how dusty it gets, or pebbles in the field, the fan keeps working.

Besides the heat sink, I also wrapped copper wire around the motor to absorb the heat. Got the wire from the rotor coils of an old airsoft motor.

* Good luck on the warranty

____________________

Gozar: running surface, tire combo, driving style affects the temps drastically. I am able to keep mine below 160F for the motor on two 3S, but do a few full throttle passes, but with casual driving, never all out driving, or the motor will be scalding hot peaking 170F. The ESC stays no more than 120F. All the connectors just a little warm to the touch, but not cooking up. The battery as well, just warm, but its normal. (not sure what you mean by pin) I have the Talion, not sure how ventilation is with the Typhon, can tell is less stress on electronics for having low profile tires, not fat truggy tires. A fan would not hurt. To me 6S is ridiculous fast, and tires tend to unglue no matter how much CA I apply before heading to the field. Have use rubbing alcohol, sanded the surfaces, so on 6S I take it easy, not too much wot passes. The good thing is the motor feels with lots of torque, so if climbing hills, doing power climbs, 6s or 5S is a must.
 
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I've been running a lot in the past few days and even on 4S I get pretty hot. Only the motor, so maybe I should try to get a Heatsink for it.
Any model/recommendation I should look into?

Else the Typhon is almost home (2 days!).

@Gozar 3S must feel pretty sloggish no?
 
I've been running a lot in the past few days and even on 4S I get pretty hot. Only the motor, so maybe I should try to get a Heatsink for it.
Any model/recommendation I should look into?

Else the Typhon is almost home (2 days!).

@Gozar 3S must feel pretty sloggish no?
I bought a hobbywing fan on ebay for around $8 and it works great. You have to squeeze the heatsink slightly either in a vice or with some channel lock pliers "very easy to do". The screws eventually came loose on the fan so i drilled some small holes in the heatsink and used zipties to secure the fan to the heatsink. Id say it dropped my temps 20 degrees give or take. Ive also abused it and its still running strong. As for your stock typhon getting hot on 4s don't worry because mine did the same. When i put the 16t pinion in that was supplied it actually helped my temps stay lower. I found myself flooring it to make the jumps whereas with the 16t pinion i was able to carry more speed with less throttle. The results are huge when you do the swap for example: higher speeds, more consistency on the track, clears jumps easier, a bit less tire wear imo, lower temps, and best of all i actually got longer run times on my batteries.
 
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It's not that bad running just the one 3s atm does not feel that sluggish as I've not put both in yet . I'm in no hurry to burn out yet lol.
 
I bought a hobbywing fan on ebay for around $8 and it works great. You have to squeeze the heatsink slightly either in a vice or with some channel lock pliers "very easy to do". The screws eventually came loose on the fan so i drilled some small holes in the heatsink and used zipties to secure the fan to the heatsink. Id say it dropped my temps 20 degrees give or take. Ive also abused it and its still running strong. As for your stock typhon getting hot on 4s don't worry because mine did the same. When i put the 16t pinion in that was supplied it actually helped my temps stay lower. I found myself flooring it to make the jumps whereas with the 16t pinion i was able to carry more speed with less throttle. The results are huge when you do the swap for example: higher speeds, more consistency on the track, clears jumps easier, a bit less tire wear imo, lower temps, and best of all i actually got longer run times on my batteries.

Thanks for the infos! I'll be shopping around for this Hobbywing heatsink!

Edit: Just bought one for 10cad which is the lowest I could find :)
 
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