Kraton Kraton upgrades and questions

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spence

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Arrma RC's
Hi guys,

So really the questions I have:
What springs should I get? The stockers are too short, I think i'm gonna be jumping it a decent bit, also oil weight?

Gearing:
I run primarily badlands and slingshots on this truck. I use Robinson racing pinion gears I think mod 1 right?
I mean I always run 6s lipo so I mean what would be ideal but not speed run gearing?
I run a Hot Racing center diff cup, I mean would you guys say its a good upgrade? I got scared after having a plastic center diff cup let the screws out and eat a center diff... Hot Racing I have learned makes some great stuff (I have their steel beadlock wheels, and the diff cup) but the spur gear "upgrade" for my e10 was pure trash it was a cheese grade alloy spur that when used with a 48pitch gear just ate itself.

But really lol I am kinda tempted to throw hot racing parts at it, I found a new bashing spot and lol I was sad I didn't bring my kraton along it was a missed opportunity lol...

Do you guys notice the diffs need shimming? I think I may have lost one of the shims lol...

Also should I go an buy all RPM a arms now?

Also I read about upgrade diffs from mugen? which ones fit?


Thanks
-Spence
 
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There are lots of info on this forum for most of your questions but I will try to do a quick summary...
I understand the Orange Tekno Springs seem to be popular as a replacement for the shocks but oil weight I am not too sure but heavier if you are going to do big jumps IMO...
Most 1/8 scale trucks run Mod 1 gears and the if you run 6s it depends on what motor kV you are running for gearing...I run 2200kV Castle with 15tooth pinion and have Yeah racing cooling fans on motor to help with temps....
I have done the Mugen shim diff mods with the standard Arrma diff cups and had no issues...I run 50000 weight in the centre and 100000 in the front and rear diffs and that works for me but I have large monster truck tyres on... Could be a little different with the Badlands....
As for the Hot Racing Parts....that is a personal choice but I do suggest both aluminium chassis braces and the servo holder as a must upgrade...
As for the A Arm's.... If you and when you brake them I would then replace with RPM's.... I haven't broken any yet and think the standard Arrma arms are good..
I really like Rpm products and I did install the Rpm front bumper and find it and nice addition.
Again this is just a guide to get you going but please read some of the great forums and information that other Rc enthusiacs have provided... It has helped me a lot and saved me also a lot of money....you don't always need to go and upgrade everything and all at once...but that is only my opinion..... Enjoy the hobby... learn as you go and over time experience will be in your favor.....Cheers
 
From GKA -
- Aluminum chassis braces - must have for heavy bashers
- Aluminum servo mount - It's a one piece solid CNC part.- -MUST HAVE NO MATTER WHAT

From Voltage Hobbies -
- Aluminum servo mount - multi piece mount but way better than stock -
- shock towers - must have for heavy bashers
- Steerring Rack - under-rated upgrade. super strong and cheap


From Hot Racing -
- Aluminum chassis braces - must have for heavy bashers
- Diff cups are good, but be sure you use a dab of blue thread lock to to hold the spur to the cup.
- Bell Crank is sweet, but need a shim on top. and some graphite between the servo saver cams
- sway bar retainers. I am a huge fan of this part. MOST under-rated upgrade they make.
- Center Diff Mount
- Center diff mount cap plate thingy. Really locks the center diff mount and the motor mount in one place.
- Front Steering knuckles - not needed, but are nice
- Rear Axel holders - not needed, but are nice



Shim all 3 diffs.
Fast Eddie Bearing set, swap out every bearing on the car. MUST HAVE
Teckno Orange Springs, 60 wt in front , 70 wt in back

Teckno Full Option Shocks if you want a big upgrade on the shocks - be sure you get the stand offs too.

I use the T-bone 2nd generation bumper, looks more like a scale bumper than the original.

My stock arms have only broken once and I had stock spares already.

Rear dirt guards to protect your shocks.

If you are using the stock motor, the Pinion is a MOD 1 with a 5mm Bore. I have never gone higher than the stock 12 tooth, it came with, but I did upgrade to a Robinson Racing gear.

I put the Outcast Battery tray, tall sides and front dirt guards on.

And now you have a list of things to search for on the forum. There are multiple threads for all of these items.

Have fun bashing, enjoy the fixing and upgrading. Repeat as often as possible.
 
Tekno shocks are amazing compared to the Arrma shocks, you don't have to go for the full option shocks get on dollar Hobbyz and search for Tekno shocks, all of the shocks will work except for the SCT410 shocks only the rears from those will work on the front of the Arrma. All of the shocks are basically the same except for the springs and the MT410 shocks have plastic shock caps, plastic spring adjusters, and plastic lower caps. There are some slight variations in the 48.3 to 48.4 shocks.
 
I was looking at the tekno springs they measure from the listing to be the same as stock, the stock springs as I said are waaay too short for the shocks all around. I mean would the full blown tekno shocks have TINI hardened steel shafts? I have actually snapped a front shock shaft at the rod end when I crashed into a jungle gym long ago bashing around at a playground lol... The arrma shocks are beefy alloy caps alloy bodies and threaded retainers for the seals and threaded bodies.

I have been doing a lot of reading, just not sure the shims I need to buy and the specific spring part numbers from tekno...
I think I'm gonna get 30 and 50 weight oil for the shocks... I just found out Hot Racing makes diff bulkheads now:) about $54 a pop but wow they look nice!
 
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Spence...if you are concerned with the spring I suggest you look at some longer Kyosho shocks...I cannot remember the part numbers but that is what I used before the Tekno was even mentioned....
Also if you break your bulkheads why not try the Arrma upgraded ones, they are now reinforced and look stronger and cost a fifth of the price of the Hot Racing ones.....
I am not a fan of all aluminium parts...and in this instance I think the new Arrma ones will be good...just a thought .....

Search these Springs by Kyosho... This is what I used for rear springs on my Kraton and they work a treat..
KYOIF348-916
I got them from A Main Hobbies and they are 95mm long which allow more adjustability with the threaded shocks.....
Unfortunately I cannot remember what I did on the fronts but possibly same Kyosho ones but a bit shorter 84 or 70mm I think.... Cheers
 
Cool....just a little bit of light reading.....for you Spence.....enjoy and Thx KrazyKraton14....
 
guys I have a question, I run SMC 4300 hard case 3s 40-80c packs they measure 138.80mm long, 46mm wide, and 25.74mm tall. There are two, would the outcast tray work? the current battery tray setup is broken... Confusing to figure out the way the batteries are installed in the outcast tray and if those packs would work.

I am going to get:
  • Hopefully some sort of upgrade batt tray
  • HR chassis braces F+R
  • Already got HR diff cups for front and rear, (already running HR diff cup in center)
  • RPM up front, already got for rear
  • Voltage or HR servo mount
I was also eyeing the traxxas mamba 2200kv erevo bl edition motor, cheap at $67 or so, my motor's plastic cap is kinda broken so the strain relief for the motor wires is just gone, just thinking about a mamba monster 2200kv system eventually...
 
Pretty much the only limiting factor is width which is max. 50mm.
I just bought the outcast battery tray, so I mean should I attempt to cancel? I mean Dietrich said his 7200's fit no problem in that tray
 
Cancel what exactly? Only one measurement of a battery or batteries needs to be 50mm or less.
 
Cancel what exactly? Only one measurement of a battery or batteries needs to be 50mm or less.
So the batts have to be stacked label on top of label now? The kraton battery tray isn't good because I keep losing batteries out of it lol. The outcast one has velcro and a stabilizer going in all directions
 
It doesn't matter how you put them in as long as the width or depth of the battery setup is 50mm or less! :arghh:

(I have cut the balance connector holder so I can fit a battery any which way.)
 
I just bought the outcast battery tray, so I mean should I attempt to cancel? I mean Dietrich said his 7200's fit no problem in that tray

It's snug but they fit in the outcast tray. One right on top of the other.
 

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I'm going to buy a few aluminum parts for my v2 kraton

Check out GPM racing.
www.gpmparts.com
Their cnc shock towers look awesome they add extra webbing and less sharp edges/90 degree cuts for less stress risers.

Their chassis braces and knuckles are a lot cheaper than hot racing too.

Not a fanboy I'm just excited to find a alternative to hot racing, they are out of China so the shipping could be a factor.
 
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