How bad are 1/8 Arrma Pinions?

@norcopunk improper gear mesh is typically the culprit of most gear issues for any RC really. Second after that is probably going to be landing your RC after a jump while under throttle... release the throttle before you land.

Those two tips will save you a LOT of problems regardless of what pinion you use.

What he says.../me point upwards...
Anyway...I haven't had any problems with the Arrma pinions...And I have been getting some very nice air time lately...
But more about that in a later posting...
Only problem I had was getting a pinion of a motor...
Well, still have the problem...The motor and said pinion keep laughing at me...

Groetjes, Erik
aka Aflan

I would tend to say to shim all 3 differentials, right out of the box. That will tighten up the gear mesh inside the diffs and allow them to wear down more slowly.

Aflan said:

What he says.../me point upwards...
Anyway...I haven't had any problems with the Arrma pinions...And I have been getting some very nice air time lately...
But more about that in a later posting...
Only problem I had was getting a pinion of a motor...
Well, still have the problem...The motor and said pinion keep laughing at me...

Groetjes, Erik
aka Aflan

Click to expand...

I actually had the same problem getting the stock pinion off. I ended up removing the set screw and drove the truck for 10-15 seconds and it loosened right up.

I would love to shim the diffs but the stupid shims are out of stock everywhere. Even the mugen ones are hard to find plus they're expensive.

No issues with pinion gears! These shims should work. I believe there in stock! Tdr310475, tdr310476 will also work if you can find them.

http://www.nitrohouse.com/Differential-Washer-Shim-Set_p_10556.html

I was going to throw the optional speed pinion in my Talion, I can't even remove the set screw...the hex rounded out. Really not happy about that. I tried heating it up with my soldering iron. I'm probably gonna have to drill it out.

You can buy a screw remover. Amazon for less than $8. It's just a reverse threaded tap. the heat will help too. I don't know what tools you have, and don't want to presume anything, but are you using the tools that came with the car, or even just a regular set of hex wrenches? I have not had half the trouble removing screws, that I see posted here. I grabbed a set of the MIP hex bits, when I first shimmed my differentials. After removing the 4 screws each diff, and then putting them back, my hands were so cramped up, I could barely move them. Since having the new Bits, I have only had one screw strip on me, and it was a bottom screw, that had seen a ton of gravel. Otherwise, even the ugly screw heads come out. But there have been a ton of posts, about the excessive ammt of thread locker used on the Arrma line.

didn't even get a pack through this truck, street running. checked several times while doing other things to the truck to prep for use, and mesh was great. i never touched the mesh/motor screws. i assume one of the motor screws let go and the motor was sliding. it got REALLY noisy and then silence as the pinion finished eating itself.

i have some mod1 pinions (13T and 17T) in storage from my old SCTE build but i decided to just throw in the option pinion. works fine. ordering some Robinson ones to fill in the gaps.

ALSO: i'm curious why Arrma shows these as being dual screw pinions??? the shaft dictates that it could have such a setup, but the pinions that came with my truck have ONE hole.