Front CVD driveshaft popping out // Possible cause & Repair

[Tex Koder]

Noticed my driverside CVD would pop out once in a while during hard braking..

This happened again a few days ago and cut my bashing time to just 12 minutes

-that's after commuting to my hidden spot...
I had two Fully charged lipos that I wanted to use up but couldn't.

I tried to pop that shaft back in..
It's SO close to going back..
But it just wouldn't budge and was wedged between the lower arm and cup.






Any how, today got a bit of time to get the dumpster fire on the stand and take a closer look at what's going.

Apparently, the Upper Arm's pivot ball Threads are stripped enough to allow the whole steering hub to move outward a tiny bit ,thus allowing the dogbone section of the shaft to pop out of the diff cup.

There's still some threads left in the hole but not enough to hold onto the pivot ball threads tight.



So here's my solution to DIY Re-thread the pivot ball hole in the upper suspension arm >>

Stripped hole

Use some "failed" PETG filament
as new fill for the pivot ball to cut new threads.

Cut a small section of PETG to fit into the hole..

Add some super glue to help hold it in place

Trim it flush..

Do it again for the top portion of the hole.

Remember to put the shaft back in..

Line up the pivot ball

My Little Helper wrenching

 

[Moirae]

someone gave me a tip to use zip ties for basically the same exact thing and it works pretty good for stripped holes.

 

[Tex Koder]

someone gave me a tip to use zip ties for basically the same exact thing and it works pretty good for stripped holes.

That would need to be some really Thin zipties.. for a 5mm hole.

 

[RCbuzz]

The Phoenix rises again!

I have used zip ties too, works well

 

[hobo]

you need to take those shims of the pivit balls so the cvd goes farther in

Noticed my driverside CVD would pop out once in a while during hard braking..

This happened again a few days ago and cut my bashing time to just 12 minutes

-that's after commuting to my hidden spot...
I had two Fully charged lipos that I wanted to use up but couldn't.

View attachment 367150

View attachment 367151

I tried to pop that shaft back in..
It's SO close to going back..
But it just wouldn't budge and was wedged between the lower arm and cup.






Any how, today got a bit of time to get the dumpster fire on the stand and take a closer look at what's going.

Apparently, the Upper Arm's pivot ball Threads are stripped enough to allow the whole steering hub to move outward a tiny bit ,thus allowing the dogbone section of the shaft to pop out of the diff cup.

There's still some threads left in the hole but not enough to hold onto the pivot ball threads tight.



So here's my solution to DIY Re-thread the pivot ball hole in the upper suspension arm >>

Stripped hole
View attachment 367159

View attachment 367161

View attachment 367162

View attachment 367163


Use some "failed" PETG filament
as new fill for the pivot ball to cut new threads.
View attachment 367164

View attachment 367165

Cut a small section of PETG to fit into the hole..
View attachment 367166

Add some super glue to help hold it in place
View attachment 367167

View attachment 367168

View attachment 367169

View attachment 367170

Trim it flush..
View attachment 367171


Do it again for the top portion of the hole.
View attachment 367172

View attachment 367173

View attachment 367174

View attachment 367175

View attachment 367176

Remember to put the shaft back in..
View attachment 367177

Line up the pivot ball
View attachment 367178

View attachment 367179

View attachment 367180

View attachment 367181

My Little Helper wrenching
View attachment 367183

 

[NitroK]

Plumbers tape is another option.

 

[Rootbeer]

Like everyone else said zip ties work just as good, the thickness doesn't really matter (from my experience) as long as the starting point of the zip tie is small enough to wedge the screw in, only problem is that the thicker the zip tie the more power it requires to screw in

 

[KnowAir]

Huh, I would have just replaced the arm? LOL.
Nice work @Tex Koder !
I haven't stripped an arm yet, but my bro has been through this process countless times while at my housing bashing, he has 2 E Revo's, so with 8 pivot balls per rig, it's a given that a pivot ball or two will inevitably get ripped out of a suspension arm, LOL.
I've watched him use teflon tape, fishing line, CA glue.. in the end, it always ends up needing a new arm(s). But each of his "fixes" did keep him going for a while, as to which was most effective, that always depends on how many cocktails he's had before repairs are performed.. and subsequently how often he crashes due to said cocktails afterwards.. no bueno..

 

[Tex Koder]

Huh, I would have just replaced the arm? LOL.
Nice work @Tex Koder !
I haven't stripped an arm yet, but my bro has been through this process countless times while at my housing bashing, he has 2 E Revo's, so with 8 pivot balls per rig, it's a given that a pivot ball or two will inevitably get ripped out of a suspension arm, LOL.
I've watched him use teflon tape, fishing line, CA glue.. in the end, it always ends up needing a new arm(s). But each of his "fixes" did keep him going for a while, as to which was most effective, that always depends on how many cocktails he's had before repairs are performed.. and subsequently how often he crashes due to said cocktails afterwards.. no bueno..

Well, overall that arm still had plenty of life in it..
It would be a Shame to throw the whole arm out just because of a little strippage of those pivot ball threads...

It's against the AF Creed >>
Blast til Totally BROKEN!

...
Nice work @Tex Koder !
...

Thank you ,sir.

 

[KnowAir]

Well, overall that arm still had plenty of life in it..
It would be a Shame to throw the whole arm out just because of a little strippage of those pivot ball threads...

It's against the AF Creed >>
Blast til Totally BROKEN!






Thank you.

That's the spirit!! I agree, I was just being a smarty pants about replacement. I run my stuff till it's dust..