DIY stand alone chamber heater

[dure16]

Yep that is the one. Hard to beat the price and function.
I found mine to be off by nearly 20 F. so you may want to use an IR gun when you do some initial tests.

I have to set it for something like 103 F to hit my target temp of 120F.

Do you warm batteries before a speed run?

 

[Tex Koder]

Do you warm batteries before a speed run?

He sure does!
I've seen him do it with my own eyes.

 

[dure16]

He sure does!
I've seen him do it with my own eyes.

My last couple speed runs have been in 40F temps (and no battery warming). I've wondered how much that impacts the results.

 

[Camaroboy383]

Yep that is the one. Hard to beat the price and function.
I found mine to be off by nearly 20 F. so you may want to use an IR gun when you do some initial tests.

I have to set it for something like 103 F to hit my target temp of 120F.

Yes sir.. I actually saw that on some of them the readings were incorrect.. so that is one of the first things I did.. ... Value #4 on the settings list is for temp discrepancy adjustment ... Good looking out though buddy, much appreciated..

I had Brim ON ,with Brim Line Count = 20
Bed = 70°

I do have Combing OFF

And I have Z Hop ON ; Z Hop Only Over Printed Parts ON ; Z Hop Height = 0.2mm

Do you feel I really need to adjust it to 0.8 ??



Wow!! , that Draft Shield is a filament Waster!!
I might as well just tape a piece of folded up paper around the print....

Well, the way I saw z hop, is it was pretty useless at .2 which is layer height or close to.. so if any lift exists in that layer the nozzle is still bashing it, defeating the purpose of z hop..

And yes sir it is.. but sometimes you have to do what you have to do to try and isolate the issue ...

 

[Camaroboy383]

So it was very late, or should I say early when I took that temp test picture.. that being said here is the missing Data as I was too damn tired to type it...

K1 max stock enclosure, so huge open seam at the door wide open and the huge cutout at the bottom of the door also wide open..

Bed set to 70c, hot end off.. temps reached the 66c in 34 minutes.. it was continuing to climb but very slowly, so I know it was reaching the point of thermal equalization.. basically leaching the heat provided just as fast as it can produce it...

It passed the test, and this is the combo I will run.. I'm sure when the hot end is on and the bed is in the 100c range it shouldn't be a problem to get into the mid 70c range or higher..

 

[dure16]

So it was very late, or should I say early when I took that temp test picture.. that being said here is the missing Data as I was too damn tired to type it...

K1 max stock enclosure, so huge open seam at the door wide open and the huge cutout at the bottom of the door also wide open..

Bed set to 70c, hot end off.. temps reached the 66c in 34 minutes.. it was continuing to climb but very slowly, so I know it was reaching the point of thermal equalization.. basically leaching the heat provided just as fast as it can produce it...

It passed the test, and this is the combo I will run.. I'm sure when the hot end is on and the bed is in the 100c range it shouldn't be a problem to get into the mid 70c range or higher..

Sounds like a success. Do you plan to close the enclosure gaps somehow?

 

[Camaroboy383]

Sounds like a success. Do you plan to close the enclosure gaps somehow?

Agreed, very happy with the setup.. I'd do, the big old hole at the bottom around the screen should be a simple one.. many people have already designed parts to block the hole.. I will just need to use PC or nylon for the print..

The one at the back of the door will be a little tricky, so it may have to be a simple piece of tape..

 

[Camaroboy383]

Update on the chamber heater.. I put it through it's paces and it worked perfectly.. ran a 6 hr and a 3 hr PC print back to back.. after 9 hrs the components were still cool to the touch.. temp readings on the PS were only 94 f degrees after hours of on off load.. definitely a successful group of components..

chamber maintained 60c the whole time without and issue, and the PC layer adhesion was exceptional.. top of the control box should be finished today and I can mount the ptc in the chamber permanently..

Once it's all done I will compile a list of the components so if anyone is interested they can make their own...

 

[RCbuzz]

Update on the chamber heater.. I put it through it's paces and it worked perfectly.. ran a 6 hr and a 3 hr PC print back to back.. after 9 hrs the components were still cool to the touch.. temp readings on the PS were only 94 f degrees after hours of on off load.. definitely a successful group of components..

chamber maintained 60c the whole time without and issue, and the PC layer adhesion was exceptional.. top of the control box should be finished today and I can mount the ptc in the chamber permanently..

Once it's all done I will compile a list of the components so if anyone is interested they can make their own...

NICE!

 

[Camaroboy383]

Ok I know some time has passed but I wanted to be sure this was all going to work out over time components wise... I at this point have an extreme amount of time put on this assembly..

Disclaimer: assemble and use this setup at your own risk.. I am not responsible for any damage, shock, or burns....it involves working with ac voltage, and very high temps emitted from the ptc heater... Risk of electrical shock, burns, and enclosure/machine damage due to improper handling/ installation will be the responsibility of you...


Here is a compiled list of components you will need.. Amazon links are for reference only and the components can be purchased wherever you choose.. but I do 100% recommend a meanwell power supply..


Meanwell 24v power supply:

MEAN WELL LRS-350-24 350.4W 24V 14.6 Amp Single Output Switchable Power https://a.co/d/66JZt0u

Stc-1000 temperature controller:

Dorhea Digital LCD Temperature Controller 10A DC 24V Thermostat STC-1000 1m NTC Sensor Thermostat Regulator Heater Cooler 2 Relay Output(24V) https://a.co/d/jjbJ9ni

Heater mosfet:

30A Heating Controller Module, 3D Printer Big Current Mini Heating Controller, MKS MOSFET MOS Module for Heat Bed Extruder https://a.co/d/1bRgqt3

Gx 20 Aviation connectors:

Hxchen 4 Pin Metal Male Female Panel Connector 20mm GX20-4P Silver Aviation Plug - (2 Sets) https://a.co/d/53OVu4D

Ptc heater module: note: this link may come as a 300w heater.. mine did..

Constant temperature Electric fan heater PTC fan Auto heater Small space heater incubator(24V 250W) https://a.co/d/53Fbd9U

Ac voltage receptacle/ power switch:

BIQU 15A 250V Rocker Switch Power Socket Inlet Module Plug 5A Fuse Switch with 5Pcs 16-14 AWG Wiring 3 Pin IEC320 C14 https://a.co/d/6wQkJxg


5010 control box intake fan:

AITIAO 6Pcs 5010 Fan 24V DC Brushless Cooling Fan 50mm Oil Bearing Fan 50mmx10mm 3D Printer Silent Brushless Cooling Fan with 2Pin Wire https://a.co/d/j9I0YaE


you will also need the following wire..
6 Ft black /red 20awg speaker wire for extending the thermistor wires..
8ft 14awg red wire, 6ft for ptc heater connection, left over will be used in control box
8ft 14awg black wire, 6ft for ptc heater connection, left over will be used in control box


you will need competent soldering skills for the gx20 connectors, thermistor extension, and connection of ptc heater/fan wires..

you will also need heat shrink for both gauge wires.. all solder joints should be covered in heat shrink to prevent arcing..

control box files will be sent to you via email if you choose to dive into this project.. just shoot over a pm and I will send you the files...main body of control box is large, it will need a 400mm build volume to print in one piece..

optionally you can design your own..

competent wiring knowledge and wire schematic reading is a must..

ptc heater installation is the sole responsibility of you, air flow can not be restricted to the ptc, improper air flow will result in the ptc heater melting down and possibly damage the driving components/machine/enclosure...

ptc heater should be mounted low in the enclosure to induce a convection style circulation..

Be safe, and enjoy..

 

[dure16]

Ok I know some time has passed but I wanted to be sure this was all going to work out over time components wise... I at this point have an extreme amount of time put on this assembly..

Disclaimer: assemble and use this setup at your own risk.. I am not responsible for any damage, shock, or burns....it involves working with ac voltage, and very high temps emitted from the ptc heater... Risk of electrical shock, burns, and enclosure/machine damage due to improper handling/ installation will be the responsibility of you...


Here is a compiled list of components you will need.. Amazon links are for reference only and the components can be purchased wherever you choose.. but I do 100% recommend a meanwell power supply..


Meanwell 24v power supply:

MEAN WELL LRS-350-24 350.4W 24V 14.6 Amp Single Output Switchable Power https://a.co/d/66JZt0u

Stc-1000 temperature controller:

Dorhea Digital LCD Temperature Controller 10A DC 24V Thermostat STC-1000 1m NTC Sensor Thermostat Regulator Heater Cooler 2 Relay Output(24V) https://a.co/d/jjbJ9ni

Heater mosfet:

30A Heating Controller Module, 3D Printer Big Current Mini Heating Controller, MKS MOSFET MOS Module for Heat Bed Extruder https://a.co/d/1bRgqt3

Gx 20 Aviation connectors:

Hxchen 4 Pin Metal Male Female Panel Connector 20mm GX20-4P Silver Aviation Plug - (2 Sets) https://a.co/d/53OVu4D

Ptc heater module: note: this link may come as a 300w heater.. mine did..

Constant temperature Electric fan heater PTC fan Auto heater Small space heater incubator(24V 250W) https://a.co/d/53Fbd9U

Ac voltage receptacle/ power switch:

BIQU 15A 250V Rocker Switch Power Socket Inlet Module Plug 5A Fuse Switch with 5Pcs 16-14 AWG Wiring 3 Pin IEC320 C14 https://a.co/d/6wQkJxg


5010 control box intake fan:

AITIAO 6Pcs 5010 Fan 24V DC Brushless Cooling Fan 50mm Oil Bearing Fan 50mmx10mm 3D Printer Silent Brushless Cooling Fan with 2Pin Wire https://a.co/d/j9I0YaE


you will also need the following wire..
6 Ft black /red 20awg speaker wire for extending the thermistor wires..
8ft 14awg red wire, 6ft for ptc heater connection, left over will be used in control box
8ft 14awg black wire, 6ft for ptc heater connection, left over will be used in control box


you will need competent soldering skills for the gx20 connectors, thermistor extension, and connection of ptc heater/fan wires..

you will also need heat shrink for both gauge wires.. all solder joints should be covered in heat shrink to prevent arcing..

control box files will be sent to you via email if you choose to dive into this project.. just shoot over a pm and I will send you the files...main body of control box is large, it will need a 400mm build volume to print in one piece..

optionally you can design your own..

competent wiring knowledge and wire schematic reading is a must..

ptc heater installation is the sole responsibility of you, air flow can not be restricted to the ptc, improper air flow will result in the ptc heater melting down and possibly damage the driving components/machine/enclosure...

ptc heater should be mounted low in the enclosure to induce a convection style circulation..

Be safe, and enjoy..

Great write up. Glad it worked out for you.

 

[Camaroboy383]

Great write up. Glad it worked out for you.

Thanks man.. it's a lot to take in but wanted to be thorough..

This setup truly made this k1 max very capable..